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NCN Professional 20 percent Matrixyl 3000 Serum

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
May 23, 2010 Reviewed by Marta 12 Comments
In case anyone missed it, someone called Curious left a comment on a post about products that contain Matrixyl 3000, asking if I knew of one by NCN Professional Skincare called, quite simply, 20% Matrixyl 3000 Serum. I hadn't heard of it and so went to check it out and what I saw made me curious enough to buy a bottle ($38 for 1oz) and start to test it out.

Matrixyl 3000 comes in after just three other ingredients, including the useful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory aloe. There are also one or two other interesting things going on here. But first, for those that need a quick reprise, Matrixyl 3000 is one of those antiaging ingredients that are worth checking out. Although there is no independent research available (clinical trials were conducted by the manufacturer, Sederma), the anecdotal evidence that it works - including my own experience - is compelling. Made by combining two peptides - palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide - Matrixyl 3000 outperforms Vitamin C (and unlike some of the Cs, it doesn’t irritate) by stimulating the matrix molecules, specifically collagens 1,3, 4 and fibronectin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is comprised of four amino acids Serine, Asparagine, Alanine) and its role is to suppress the body’s production of excess interleukins, the chemical messengers which trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response which leads to glycation damage.

The clinical trials were carried out at a 4% concentration. So it remains to be seen if more is actually better or merely results in diminishing returns.

I was interested to see that there is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Now this is Matrixyl (without the 3,000) and it, too, is supposed to stimulate collagen synthesis and skin repair. It is said that the two Matrixyls signal molecules in different ways and work synergistically. I am not sure if there is anything to read in the fact NCN has not noted that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 got a subtle name change a couple of years ago to palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. But what I also find confusing is that palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 is listed in the NCN serum's ingredients. This now goes by the name of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which of course is already listed.

Hmm. Is NCN doubling up on the same things by exploiting these subtle INCI name changes. If so, why? To use up some old stock? To pack out the ingredients list? Still, this otherwise simple formula looks potentially powerful and promising. I like the inclusion of chrysin, another anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Some lab tests also suggest that chrysin activates an enzyme that helps eliminate pigmented bilirubin and iron deposits underneath the skin (aka dark circles).

The only way to get the measure of NCN Professional Skincare's 20% Matrixyl Serum is to try it out. I'll be back in three or four weeks.

UPDATE: Since posting this, NCN wrote to me explaining that the ingredients listed on the bottle are indeed wrong. The correct/updated ones appear below and will be on future bottles 20% Matrixyl 3000 Serum.

Ingredients on bottle:

De-Ionized Water, Aloe Leaf Gel, Vegetable Glycerine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chrysin, Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Steareth-20, Polysorbate- 20, Carbomer, Diazolidinyl Urea, EDTA.

Ingredients updated:

Ingredients:  De-Ionized Water, Aloe Leaf Gel, Vegetable Glycerine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chrysin, Hydroxy- succinimide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Steareth-20, Polysorbate- 20, Carbomer, Diazolidinyl Urea, EDTA
  • July 16, 2014

    by lisa

    You can find several posts on the internet explaining matrixyl percentages. When you see 20, 30 and 40% , It really means 2. 3 and 4%. It is very misleading, thinking that the product actually has a higher percent then it does.

  • September 3, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Donna, the review is here:
    You might also be interested in a couple of related articles. This one compares it with two other very similar products .And this one looks at whether concentrations of 20% are really likely to work better than lower doses

  • September 3, 2011

    by Donna

    What ever happened with the testing of this product? Is it worth the investment?

  • June 17, 2010

    by marta

    Hi Irina
    We wrote about the Isomers a while ago. I think the question for me is whether there are diminishing returns with these high Matrixyl doses. I'll be coming back with a review on NCN is a few weeks.

  • June 15, 2010

    by Irina

    Hi, Marta,
    There is another similar product for your research - ISOMERS Matrixyl 20% Solution -1.86 fl oz ($54)
    Ingredients: Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Glycerin, Water/Aqua/Eau, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Phenoxyethanol, Tropolone.

  • June 2, 2010

    by marta

    Hi Ellena, I'm only about a week in so I'll report back towards the end of June.

  • June 2, 2010

    by Ellena

    So, I am curious to know the results from this potion.
    Why do they find a need in spoiling all the good ingredients by using in the end Diazolidinyl Urea and EDTA???

  • May 26, 2010

    by marta

    Hi Suz,

    I just updated the post as NCN contacted me and admitted that the ingredients had been listed wrongly. They immediately corrected it and is what you have just found on the website and I've added it to the post as well.

  • May 26, 2010

    by Suz

    Hi Marta,

    I actually bought a sample of this and it seems nice.. BUT, I am seeing a Different ingredients list. I took it right off the site today.

    There is no Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, and the Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is NOW Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-7.

    Does this change your perspective? I am so confused on all of these Products. I also have been using Cellbone HYPER PEPTIDES
    and their Super AOX - both have Matrixyl 3000.

    Thanks..I hope this can be cleared up - More confused than ever

  • May 26, 2010

    by marta

    Hi Bess, looking forward to sharing notes with you.

  • May 25, 2010

    by Bess

    This sounds really interesting, Marta. I'm going to order up a bottle and test along with you. Best, B.

  • May 23, 2010

    by Julie Kay

    I'll be waiting to hear back from you on this one, Marta. =) I have a spot for this, if you approve. ~jk

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