In case anyone missed it, someone called Curious left a comment on a post about products that contain Matrixyl 3000, asking if I knew of one by NCN Professional Skincare called, quite simply, 20% Matrixyl 3000 Serum. I hadn't heard of it and so went to check it out and what I saw made me curious enough to buy a bottle ($38 for 1oz) and start to test it out.

Matrixyl 3000 comes in after just three other ingredients, including the useful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory aloe. There are also one or two other interesting things going on here. But first, for those that need a quick reprise, Matrixyl 3000 is one of those antiaging ingredients that are worth checking out. Although there is no independent research available (clinical trials were conducted by the manufacturer, Sederma), the anecdotal evidence that it works - including my own experience - is compelling. Made by combining two peptides - palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide - Matrixyl 3000 outperforms Vitamin C (and unlike some of the Cs, it doesn’t irritate) by stimulating the matrix molecules, specifically collagens 1,3, 4 and fibronectin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is comprised of four amino acids Serine, Asparagine, Alanine) and its role is to suppress the body’s production of excess interleukins, the chemical messengers which trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response which leads to glycation damage.

The clinical trials were carried out at a 4% concentration. So it remains to be seen if more is actually better or merely results in diminishing returns.

I was interested to see that there is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Now this is Matrixyl (without the 3,000) and it, too, is supposed to stimulate collagen synthesis and skin repair. It is said that the two Matrixyls signal molecules in different ways and work synergistically. I am not sure if there is anything to read in the fact NCN has not noted that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 got a subtle name change a couple of years ago to palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. But what I also find confusing is that palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 is listed in the NCN serum's ingredients. This now goes by the name of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which of course is already listed.

Hmm. Is NCN doubling up on the same things by exploiting these subtle INCI name changes. If so, why? To use up some old stock? To pack out the ingredients list? Still, this otherwise simple formula looks potentially powerful and promising. I like the inclusion of chrysin, another anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Some lab tests also suggest that chrysin activates an enzyme that helps eliminate pigmented bilirubin and iron deposits underneath the skin (aka dark circles).

The only way to get the measure of NCN Professional Skincare's 20% Matrixyl Serum is to try it out. I'll be back in three or four weeks.

UPDATE: Since posting this, NCN wrote to me explaining that the ingredients listed on the bottle are indeed wrong. The correct/updated ones appear below and will be on future bottles 20% Matrixyl 3000 Serum.

Ingredients on bottle:

De-Ionized Water, Aloe Leaf Gel, Vegetable Glycerine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chrysin, Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Steareth-20, Polysorbate- 20, Carbomer, Diazolidinyl Urea, EDTA.

Ingredients updated:

Ingredients:  De-Ionized Water, Aloe Leaf Gel, Vegetable Glycerine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chrysin, Hydroxy- succinimide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Steareth-20, Polysorbate- 20, Carbomer, Diazolidinyl Urea, EDTA