Nerium AD Night Cream ($110) is a curious product that after a month of testing I find to be ultimately unpleasant, ineffective and puzzling.
The active ingredient is the poisonous leaf of the oleander plant. It is so poisonous that, as I wrote at the beginning of October, just one leaf can kill a child. It is listed as the second ingredient in Nerium AD Night Cream. I have lived to tell the tale, but my skin did break out when I applied Nerium AD. I had more false starts than a learner driver with this cream as I had to repeatedly stop using it in order to let my skin calm down.
Indeed, skin irritation from contact with oleander has been documented and “allergies are possible” (source). Several people commented on my Nerium oleander article with reports of their own allergic reactions. To be fair, my reactions seemed to stop after about two and half weeks. Perhaps my skin got used to it.
Nonetheless, I never was won over by Nerium. I don’t like the smell (compost) or the thick, almost clay-like texture. It did absolutely nothing for my skin, no fading of wrinkles nor improvement of the complexion. As mentioned in the previous article, I haven’t found any independent information confirming that nerium oleander works for skin anti-aging.
The texture of Nerium Night Cream leads me to one of the puzzling aspects of the formula as set out by the ingredients list on the bottle and the package. There is no base listed – typically this would be water or oil. The first ingredients are the proprietary blend of nerium oleander followed by something called “proprietary protein,” which includes collagen. Only then comes rice bran oil.
The rest of the formula is fairly lack luster (apart from quinoa). The third so-called “proprietary blend” amusingly includes phenylpropanol, which is routinely prescribed for incontinent dogs. Here it is part of a complex used for stabilizing cosmetics.