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New vitamin C serum from Your Best Face

Is a Solution for:
Age Spots
Reviewed by Marta November 23, 2012 15 Comments

I think that Your Best Face’s Concentrate series (which includes Antioxidants and Hydrate B) are genius. In an era of ever more complex formulas, I appreciate their simplicity and focus. The latest, CE Concentrate, is an excellent addition. If you’ve been searching for an unadulterated vitamin C serum, then look no further than Your Best Face Advanced CE Concentrate ($50 in the shop).

It has no less than three forms of vitamin C, chosen for their stability and performance: tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate/MAP and aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate/AAP.

The first of these, tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative. It is stable, due to being fat soluble and less irritating than ascorbyl acid. There is a 2006 study that concluded that it can suppress UV-induced skin pigmentation at a 3% dose. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate plays nice with vitamins A and E and UV filters. One study published in Dermatologic Surgery in 2002 showed that a topical formulation combining 10% vitamin C and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate improved hydration and collagen synthesis in the skin and resulted in “clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling” after 12 weeks. A 2009 study claims that it can actually prevent UV damage occurring.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is similar to ascorbic acid in that it is water-soluble. However, it also has what AA lacks: a gentle effect on skin, efficacy in lower concentrations, and stability at a neutral pH. And the third, aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate/AAP, is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C, that is often preferred for having superior stability and effectiveness. It’s particularly lauded for reducing melanin production – the culprit behind age spots, melasma and hyperpigmentation.

The formula is rounded out with vitamin E. And that’s about it! Note there’s nothing nasty and the preservative is natural radish root ferment.

My sensitive skin does not easily tolerate vitamin C serums, but I find Advanced CE Concentrate a joy to use. The lotion is lightweight, easily absorbed and, for me, not at all irritating or drying. This is a very welcome addition to my skincare routine. I especially like using it with green LED light for hyperpigmentation.

Ingredients: reverse osmosis water, olivem (cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate), vitamin C (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), meadowfoam seed oil, vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate/MAP), vitamin C (aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate/AAP), ethylhexyl palmitate, vitamin e succinate (d-alpha tocopherol succinate), Leucidal (radish root ferment filtrate), alpha bisabolol

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  • December 6, 2012

    by Darrell

    Hi Laura,
    Thank you and please let me know what you think of the new CE and if you have any additional questions as you start using it.

    CE will most likely prove to be a perfect stand-alone day cream, but we designed it to also layer well -- it pairs great with Restore or Control when budget allows. If you are alternating with Control, I would suggest using CE during the day and Control at night. Marta may want to weigh in too here -- saving the heavy-hitting peptides in Control for night use when the body is in rest and repair mode would and then using CE during the day (because it is light and moisturizing and Cs work great with the skin during daytime use).

    The routine I have been particularly enjoying is layering Private Reserve Energy Blend, CE and Hydrate B together. To do this, I apply a drop or two of Private Reserve after a shower, then massage in Hydrate B followed by either CE on its own or layered with Control.

    Where CE would pair great with another product at night, is following Prep -- you will be astounded how the two pair up in the eve for a good skin treat and fresher, rested look.

    I hope these tips help!

  • December 6, 2012

    by Laura

    I'm just waiting for my Advanced CE to arrive. I just finished my bottle of YBF Restore and thought I would see how this compares.

    Darrell, I used the Restore at night and Control in the day. Would it be best to use CE at night and Control in the morning, or the opposite? Thanks and I appreciate how YBF is always making improvements to its products, I've loved everything I've tried!!!

  • December 6, 2012

    by Kelly

    I have a lot of hyperpigmentation for years in the sun. I currently alternating between mad hippie VIt. C and MUAC Vit C & E serum. Both have been very good to my skin but I need something more. This sounds like exactly what I've been looking for.

  • December 6, 2012

    by Ann

    Would love to test this out. I've been noticing more and more fine wrinkles around my eyes and a deeper line developing between my eyebrows. Would love to find something that would counteract these signs of aging

  • December 6, 2012

    by Tammy Allen

    At 53 I am just starting to notice lines and wrinkles and would love to try a product that may hold them off just a little longer.

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