The serum gods are smiling on me these days. There have been so many recent scores - such as the impressive Skin Nutrition Cell CPR - that I shall probably have to update our Five Best Anti-Aging Serums in the non too distant future. One of the latest to achieve recommended status is Osmosis Replenish ($52), which I'd say is powerful enough to make its mark on full-blown wrinkles as well as fine lines. This is one is a skin smoother.
Osmosis Replenish has already caused a bit of controversy with readers questioning the use of niacinamide alongside resveratrol and the inclusion of ethyl alcohol. I investigated the niacinamide issue and concluded in a post that it is a worthy ingredient in every sense. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, decrease hyperpigmentation and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis, according to many peer published studies. Regarding the alcohol, I do notice a fleeting (and I mean a second or two) tingle when I first apply Replenish, but otherwise have noticed no irritation (and I have very sensitive skin).
Having got that out of the way, it should be noticed that the rest of Osmosis Replenish ingredients pack a powerful antioxide punch with nothing at all from the Truth In Aging nasties list. I have written about the dominant ingredient, phosphatidycholine, before, so I'll focus here on a couple of others. Always worth a shout out is one of my favorites, spin trap. A signature ingredient of the Your Best Face range, it is a very effective radical scavenger. So too is catalase. This enzyme is super useful in that it is the catalyst that turns hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen, which is naturally occurring but builds up over time. One of the real superheros in Replenish could well be chlorella vulgaris extract. A bright green algae (pictured), it is loaded with amino acids such as lysine, proline, glycine, and alanine, all of which are the essential building blocks of proteins and constitute each individual collagen unit. Its large amino acid component leads many to believe that it has the ability to restructure and smooth out the surface of the skin, particularly with scarred or aging skin. Furthermore, itis an excellent source of methyl-cobolamine, the most absorbable form of vitamin B12. In some studies, a small concentration of .016% stimulated collagen synthesis and concentrations of .4% strongly increased the density of the epidermal layer. Meanwhile, ferulic acid is something of an unsung hero of the antiaging cosmetic world. A 2004 Italian study concluded that ferulic acid is a more powerful antioxidant than alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), beta-carotene, and ascorbic acid (vitamic C).
Osmosis also sent me a separate pot of L-ascorbic acid so that I can choose how much to add. What an intelligent idea. For my test, I tried Replenish without the vitamin C and I was still impressed with the results. Over the next few weeks, I'll try adding it in and see what happens. The only downside to this excellent antiager is that it isn't easy to get as it seems to be distributed through dermatologists and salons.