I have just started to test an antioxidant serum called Replenish ($38 for 30ml) by Osmosis Pur Medical. I must admit, I am very excited: the ingredients list is a veritable who's who of the antiaging, antioxidant hit list. If the ingredients are all they are cracked up to be, this is going to be one powerful potion.
First up, there is phosphatidycholine. The only other time I have come across this is in Dior Capture R60/80
. Some dermatologists are experimenting with it as an alternative to liposuction since it is believed that phosphatidycholine can target and dissolve fat cells. I mentioned it in a post on mesotherapy
It isn’t going to be easy to try to explain what phosphatidycholine is without resorting to some long words. Anyway, I shall try to keep this as simple as I can. Phosphatidycholine is the predominant phospholipid (something that is in all life forms) of all cell membranes and of the circulating blood lipoproteins. It is made up of glycerol and fatty acids. Phosphatidycholine contains choline (and this is the interesting part), therefore, it is a precursor to messenger molecules that go from cell to cell. And it can improve and protect cells and membrane damaged by free radicals.
Osmosis has ensured that it is keeping good company with vitamin B3 (niacinamide
), which increases ceramide in skin and has been shown to cure acne. It is also toxic, but only at doses far higher than used in cosmetics. Then there is catalase, an enzyme that occurs naturally in our bodies (but declines as we get older) and prevents too much hydrogen peroxide from building up.
Of course, I can't resist giving a shout out to spin trap, a busy molecule that hunts down free radicals and stops them from spinning out of control. It is the signature ingredient of Your Best Face. Other old friends include GHK copper peptide
. In case you were wondering, the mouthful that is tetrahydrocurcuminoids is turmeric
treated somehow so that is colorless rather than bright yellow.
Ferulic acid is something of an unsung hero of the antiaging cosmetic world. A 2004 Italian study concluded that ferulic acid
is a more powerful antioxidant than alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), beta-carotene, and ascorbic acid (vitamic C). Meanwhile, Duke University researchers blended it with vitamin C and E and proclaimed it a "potent ubiquitous plant antioxidant".
The full list of remarkable ingredients is below and, best of all, there is nothing not to like. I'll report back after a few weeks of testing.
Five Best antiaging ingredients to look out for
Five Best for 40-something and 50+ skin
Purified water, phosphatidycholine, ethyl, niacinamide, glycerin, catalase, superoxide dismutase, L-glutathione, ferulic acid, CoQ10, tetrahydrocurcuminoids, spin trap, R-lipoic acid, astaxanthin, chlorella, trans resveratrol, GHK copper peptide, grape seed extract, curcumin, green tea extract, ginkgo biloba, essential oil blend