Osmotics founder, Francine Porter, says that if you give her seven days, she’ll give you a new face. Although partly dismissing her hubris, I was amused by the challenge and I was going to get a chance to use the latest variant on Osmotics’ best selling Blue Copper 5 products, Blue Copper 5 Molecular Repair Treatment ($125).

Blue Copper 5 Molecular Repair Treatment is a set of seven ampoules, one for each day. Or night, to be precise. Osmotics recommends night time application and I think that this is due to the cream imparting a slightly chalky look (much as you might get from a mineral sunscreen). Although I tried hard, I couldn’t use up a whole ampoule in one application (despite generous slathering and extending it to my neck). And I ended up using the pack over two weeks, making the price tag a tad less pricey. Even so, at a weekly (or two weekly) cost of $125, this is not for everyday use. Rather, Blue Copper 5 Molecular Repair Treatment is something that you might use in the run up to an important event when you want to be looking your best.

Which of course raises the all important question, would you be looking your best? In my case, I think Francine deserves to win her challenge – but with a couple of reservations. She says that with Blue Copper 5 Molecular Repair Treatment  you’ll “awaken to softer, smoother, hydrated skin with an overall more even tone and texture.” In my experience that was definitely true. However, my hyper-sensitive skin did experience a small breakout.

Up near the top of the ingredients list is Matrixyl 3000, the powerful collagen building peptide combination of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7. But the real stars of the show are, of course, copper PCA and copper ferment. Copper peptides promote the degradation of abnormally large cross-linked collagen (the one found in scars and, to a lesser degree, in wrinkles). They also stimulate the production of ‘regular’ collagen found in normal skin. Also of note is ceratonia siliqua seed extract, which is carob and full of fatty acids. There’s a good dose of moisturizing sodium hyaluronate and no Osmotics product would be complete without carnosine, an important antioxidant and antiglycation agent.

My take on Osmotics is that it chooses powerful ingredients that are known to work as anti-agers. However, they are not for purists who shun silicones, alcohol, lavenderlaureths, or preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Those with sensitive skin should approach with caution (but in my experience, reactions vary by product: I can’t use Anti-Radical Age Defense – although I have friends who won’t use anything else – while I use Inner Light almost every day and don’t have a problem).


Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Caprylic/Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl-Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract, Glycerine, Dimethicone, Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol, Copper PCA, Sodium PCA, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Phenoxyethenol, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Carnosine, Acrylates Copolymer, Allantoin, Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, Tromethamine