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At long last, “hormonal aging,” or the symptoms of menopause that result in thin, dry, sun sensitive skin, is getting some recognition from the beauty industry. Imbalanced hormones and what they are doing to our skin are no longer a dirty little secret. And this is being addressed head on with the new Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Prime ($135).
Overtly aiming at women over 40, Osmotics founder, Francine Porter, has found Prime to be (in her own words) a “labor of love.” She has assembled some impressive heavy hitters, including a “triple strength” copper peptide, a firming tetrapeptide, an epidermal growth factor and artichoke leaf. For an ingredients nerd like me, this is heady stuff. I’ll come back to them after I tell you about how I got on with Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Prime.
My hormones seem to have been having the most fun with my forehead and neck, and so it is there where I put Prime through its paces. I started to see an improvement within about 10 days, which was an unexpected (but very welcome) outcome. My neck, in particular, is looking much smoother, and in response to a pinch test feels much more supple and firm. My forehead results are less dramatic, but I do fancy that the furrows are shallower. After a month or so, I am about half way through the pot, and I am anticipating more good things to come as I finish it.
Osmotics is big on copper peptides, and it is the key ingredient in its Blue Copper 5 range. With Prime, it has sourced a new version that the company claims is triple strength and 50% more potent. I am a big believer in the power of copper peptides to repair wrinkles and stimulate collagen, so this alone makes Prime something of a standout.
The tetrapeptide is acetyl tetrapeptide-2. There isn’t much research published on acetyl tetrapeptide-2, but I did read that it compensates for some hormone loss, such as the hormone thymopoietin, which slows down cell renewal and curbs the skin’s natural immune functions. Francine Porter swears by it for counteracting the force of gravity. And while we are on the subject of peptides, there’s also Matrixyl 3000, a very reliable collagen booster.
The growth factor in Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Prime is sh-Oligopeptide-1. This is the “synthetic human” stem cell that is in Medik8 Growth Factor Youth Activating Serum ($160). Clinical trials by the manufacturer show results on wrinkles after 12 weeks. The last key ingredient, artichoke leaf extract (cynara scolymus) limits the production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are generally undesirable things that lurk about waiting for the skin matrix to get worn out or damaged so they can start chopping it up. Artichoke also increases skin thickness, reduces fine lines and increases hydration (especially, I am told, in menopausal skin). In addition, there are vitamins A, B and E, as well as sodium hyaluronate.
I think Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Prime will have particular relevance for women entering into that confusing period of hormonal change when their skin is even more unpredictable than their emotions. And the only thing that can be predicted is the stuff they previously used is just not going to cut it – at that point, Prime could be just the thing.