Teprenone (also known as Renovage) has been around for little more than two years and while it shows up in anti-aging cosmetics, very few brands have really embraced it. Osmotics, however, has really adopted Renovage as its signature ingredient and it is front and center of its new Renovage Cellular Longevity Serum ($85).

I have been testing this serum for about five weeks on my forehead and if you bought the Fall 2011 Discover With Marta collection, you’ll have had the chance to try it too – and I’d love to hear how you found it. My personal experience has been a very good one so far. It seems to have a smoothing effect on lines, as well making the skin softer. Also I have not had any breakouts (which has happened with some Osmotics products in the past).

Osmotics tends to formulate at the cutting edge and has plenty of in vivo data to back up claims for its products. They tend to be pretty effective, but they don’t pay any lip service to those that prefer products based on natural ingredients. Teprenone is the fourth ingredient in Osmotics Renovage Cellular Longevity Serum and is all about stabilizing the telomeres. These allow cells to get important information on DNA. Telomeres shorten every time a cell divides. When they become very short, they trigger cell crisis and cell death. So if teprenone/Renovage can prevent telomeres from shortening, the life cycle of a cell may be extended.

This serum also has what Osmotics calls a “Patented Tripeptide/Protein Combination” - tripeptide-10 citrulline and Tripeptide-1 - that is supposed to restore collagen levels in both young and mature skin. Tripeptide-10 citrulline is a peptide that regulates the formation of collagen fibers my mimicking a molecule called decorin (which declines as we get older) so that the collagen fibers are fooled into thinking they should still be productive. Meanwhile, tripeptide 1 when combined with soy and wheat proteins, as it is here, becomes something called Aldenine, which is supposed to boost production of it by 300% in a mere seven days.

Osmotics also gives prominence to ergothioneine is an antioxidant amino acid, although studies are a little contradictory as to how well it performs. Other antioxidants include ubiquinone and green tea. There is also spilanthes acmella, a botanical extract that I thought acted as a muscle relaxant to prevent the formation of expression lines.  There are several skin conditioners such as squalane and cholecalcipherol.

There’s a couple of the usual suspects in the preservative department (I especially don’t like triethanolamine) and these days I keep a wary eye on retinyl palmitate and titanium dioxide. But overall the high proportion of actives in Osmotics Renovage Cellular Longevity Serum is impressive.

Ingredients: Purified Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera Gel), Methyl Gluceth-20, Teprenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10, Citrulline, Tripeptide-1, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Squalane, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ergothioneine, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Glycerine, Dimethicone, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Cholecalcipherol, Squalane, Vitamin E Acetate, Ubiquinone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf (Green Tea) Extract, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Carbomer, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine.