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The 'it ingredient' of the moment may well be teprenone (also known as Renovage) and behind some cutting edge research on theories of aging. Teprenone is in Your Best Face's Boost and also in Osmotics Renovage Cellular Eye Repair Cream ($78), which I have been trying out for the last three weeks.
Renovage/teprenone is supposed to stabilize things called telomeres. It's pretty complex and you can read more in my post on telomeres, but in a nutshell, they allow cells to distinguish chromosome ends from broken DNA. As we get older, they get shorter and teprenone prevents that happening. Maintaining telomere length extends, we are told, the Hayflick Limit (the number of times cells reproduce) by one third.
Only time will tell if my telemeres are stabilizing, but the visible effects of using Osmotics Renovage are pretty good. This cream is good at smoothing out wrinkles and tightening the skin. I don't really have dark under eye circles but about half way through my test I looked Panda-eyed for a couple of days and the Osmotics cream didn't seem to particularly help. It is, however, a good depuffer.
There is another ingredient that may help extend the hayflick limit, carnosine. What makes it stand apart from other antioxidants is its potential ability to fight against, not just oxidative damage done by free radicals, but also damage done by sugar-related glycation. There are plenty of independent studies on aminoguanidine. It seems that it inhibits the cross-linking of proteins that cause signs of aging such as break down of elastin.
A couple of the botanicals are worth a call out. Peumus boldus, is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant (although should be avoided by pregnant women). Resveratol has also been isolated from polygonum cuspidatum root extract, also known as Japanese knotweed, it is used in Estee Lauder's Time Zone line. Spilanthes acmella, which also goes by the name of acmella oleracea, is a botanical that has been cropping up recently and is billed as a muscle relaxant that helps prevent the formation of expression wrinkles.
Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Seed (Shea) Butter, Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride, Squalane, Teprenone, Butylene Glycol, Aminoguanidine, Decarboxy Carnosine HCL, Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glycerol Stearate, PDG-100 Stearate, Ubiquinone, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Dimethicone, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Cholecalcipherol, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Carbomer, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol.