PCA SKIN pHaze 24 Rejuvenating Serum ($70) is an impressive new find. In fact, I'd really love to give it a try. But there's a snag. In addition to some very exciting ingredients that I'll go into in a moment, it contains
This has been dubbed the "radical sponge" and some people have even said it might be the most powerful antioxidant known to man. The problem is that it is also controversial and was pulled from a British product called Zelens after a furor broke out in the media.
A University of Oregon study concluded that C-60 causes oxidative stress. Mind you, the tests were conducted on zebrafish. And there have been studies on mice that concluded that fullerenes were not toxic. However, other reports, show that when exposed to sunlight, C60 becomes toxic; safe C60 is essentially "pristine and dark". Another test on bass (I'm not quite sure what it is about fish and fullerenes) resulted in lipid peroxidation of the brain. Friends of the Earth says "even low levels of exposure to fullerenes have been shown to damage human liver cells".
If I could get past my worries about C-60 fullerenes (and I'm not sure that I can), there are plenty of things to lure me, credit card in hand, in the direction of PCA's Rejuvenating Serum. First of all there are two versions of epidermal growth factor. I know that this works because of my experience with Reluma, which is a very effective serum with nine growth factors.
The rest of the ingredients have been chosen with care. PCA's formulator hasn't just thrown in some of the moisturizing ingredient, hyaluronic acid, but has isolated one if its components, glucoronic acid. Similarly, there is green tea along with the addition of
epigallocatechin gallate, which is one of the polyphenols (probably one of the most potent) in green tea. And, while there is the ubiquitous form of vitamin E, tocopherol, they've also added in another E called tocotrienols, which studies show to have considerably superior antioxidant properties.
My good friend spin trap (
Phenyl-N-butyl Nitrone) is also here. This molecule stops free radicals that are spinning out of control in their tracks, preventing them from causing cellular damage. Lastly, sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is an a
nti-inflammatory, which prevents loss of prytoglycans present in tissue.
Apart from a couple of parabens there is nothing to dislike. Hmmm. I can feel myself wavering.
Ingredients in PCA SKIN pHaze 24 Rejuvenating Serum
Distilled Water (Aqua), Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Serum Protein (EGF), InVitrolon (Epidemal Growth Factor, Propylene Glycol, Glutamine, Deuterium Oxide), Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Xanthan Gum, Squalene, Glucoronic Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Tocotrienols (Vitamin E), Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG), Bisabolol, Camellia Oliferia (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Phenyl-N-butyl Nitrone, C-60 Fullerenes (Carbon), Melissa Officinalis (balm Mint) Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Cananaga Odorata (Ylang-Ylang) Flower Oil, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.