My new cosmetic BFF is Osmotics Inner Light, a foundation that isn't really a foundation. This pinkish cream is based on spherical pigments that, along with some silicone, plant oils and vitamins, create a light-defusing layer. I always find that anything but the sheerest foundation makes me look older, Inner Light is perfect for me. With my new enthusiasm for face caking, I was intrigued to see that Perricone MD has brought out his latest 'eureka' product, the No Foundation Foundation ($50).

Judging from the ingredients, I'll be sticking with Inner Light (the Osmotics product has only a smidge of silicone in almond and jojoba oil fortified by vitamins). Perricone's No Foundation has four silicones and three stearates (waxy stuff used as thickeners). Plus I don't like that phenoxyethanol, a powerful preservative that is a toxin, is surprisingly high up the ingredients list and there are one or two irritants in the form of ethylhexylglycerin and hexylene glycol.

Having said that, there are some good things. There is non-irritating and stable form of vitamin C (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate). Date extract is a potent antioxidant, according to a 2002 study. As is a plant called arabidopsis thaliana. I am very interested to see that teprenone, the 'it' drug du jour that addresses anti-aging by stabilizing telomeres, puts in an appearance.

And a Perricone product wouldn't be complete without his signature DMAE, a controversial ingredient. DMAE is believed to help improve facial muscle tone, encourage skin cell renewal, and reduce wrinkles. But there is some suspicion that DMAE can lead to a thickening of the epidermal layer, subsequently halting cell division and even killing some cells.

I find it a little odd to see both glycolic and alpha hydroxy acids here. I don't think of my foundation as an exfoliator; even if it is a No Foundation.

Perricone No Foundation is available at Amazon. 

Ingredients

Zinc Oxide (12.2%), Titanium Dioxide (3.2%), Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cyclomethicone, Peg 100 Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sorbitan Stearate, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Glycolic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Dimethyl Mea (DMAE), Tribehenin, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Lecithin, Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid), PEG-8, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide 2, PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol, Teprenone, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Plankton Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, C13-14 Isopara_N, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Iron Oxides (CI 72122, CI 72123, CI 72124), Citric Acid, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Ascorbic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Limonene, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Linalool, Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil, Coriandrum Sativum