Peter Thomas Roth launches Retinol Fusion Alternative Anti-wrinkle Solution. All well and good, except it isn’t quite what it seems to be.

There is an important clue in the name of Peter Thoms Roth Retinol Fusion Alternative Anti-wrinkle Solution ($85). The word “alternative” is key because in actual fact there is no retinol in Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion. Instead there ingredients that sound much more as if they came from the marketing department than the lab: Retinopeptide 189 and Vit-A-Like™. Now, pinning down what these are in the actual formula of Retinol Fusion is not obvious.

I am guessing that Retinopeptide 189 is myristoyl nonapeptide-3 since this is the only peptide in Retinol Fusion. According to Peter Thomas Roth, it “helps support natural cell turnover”, which does make it sound much like a retinol. The only thing is that I can’t corroborate this and, if anything, this peptide seems to be a skin whitener. It also goes by the name Actiwhite and is supposed to decrease melanogenesis. This makes it sound similar to nonapeptide-1, which is derived from melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and is in Arcona Mandarin Brightening Peel.

Vit-A-Like™ is actually a plant extract and is billed as “a botanical alternative to retinol with high tolerance and stability”. The plant is called moth bean (vigna aconitifolia seed). I couldn’t find any research on it to confirm that it really is vitamin A or retinol like. However, I did find a patent application that made some interesting claims including that the seed extract from vigna aconitifolia contains a protein that encourages skin cell turnover, calms irritation and is antioxidant. Interesting.

Confusingly, the product description for Peter Thoms Roth Retinol Fusion Alternative Anti-wrinkle Solution also mentions another plant called arophira. I can find no reference to this anywhere in botanical literature and it is not listed on the product’s ingredient list.

Leaving frustration aside, I am intrigued by Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion Alternative Anti-wrinkle Solution. For people like me who are sensitive to retinol, as well as concerned about some of the downsides of using it, Peter Thomas Roth may have found a breakthrough alternative.  I’d love to hear from anyone who has used it.

Ingredients in Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion: Water, Glyceryl Stearate,C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isocetyl Stearate, Panthenol, Cetyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Nylon-12, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkll (Shea Butter), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-100 Stearate, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Allantoin, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Bakuchiol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Mica, Sodium Benzoate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol.