is a line of products from Kinerase
designed to help break topical cosmetic plateaus and take results to the next level. The line integrates the kinetin
(N6-furfuryladenine) growth factor with a next generation plant-based RNA growth factor, zeatin. The star product of the line is the Émergence Cell Rejuvenation Complex
($130), formulated with the kinetin-zeatin complex combined with four key anti-aging ingredients using a breakthrough delivery system. The pricey serum reportedly is clinically proven to improve signs of photo-damage and aging and result in firmer, less wrinkled skin.
The main ingredient in Kinerase products is kinetin, a plant-based extract that is supposed to visibly improve the appearance of aging and sun-damaged skin. In plants, kinetin prevents plant leaves from drying out and withering; topically on the skin it is supposed to improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture. A 2002 Chapel Hill, North Carolina study
published in Dermatology Times
found that in a 12-week, split-face study showed a 62% improvement in skin texture, clarity, discrete pigmentation, mottled pigmentation, and fine wrinkling.
For those who shy away from human growth factors, Pro+Therapy MD uses a plant-derived growth factor found in moringa
. Cytokinins are plant hormones that help cells divide and protect against oxidation. Zeatin is the most powerful of all cytokinins. According to a 2004 Danish study, zeatin helps promote small cell size, a key component to more youthful skin. It also influences the structural and functional integrity of the cell, and prevents accumulation of macromolecular damage in the cell. The study found that zeatin increases the activity of some antioxidant enzymes, counteracting the free radical-induced oxidative damage incurred during cell aging.
The kinetin-zeatin complex, exclusive to Pro+Therapy MD, is delivered via an exclusive Prosome Delivery System. According to the company, the delivery system is scientifically proven to improve the visible signs of aging, boost the skin’s natural antioxidant defense and help recapture a youthful appearance. Supposedly, it provides 41% more kinetin and 100% more zeatin than conventional formulations. The encapsulated ingredients are transported deep into skin and slowly released over 12 hours.
Pro+ Therapy MD’s complementary four anti-aging ingredients consist of PhytoCellTec (aka green apple stem cells – read about them here
), chronogen, orsirtine and vitasource. Chronogen, a very new (2012) bio-engineered ingredient comprised of butylene glycol
, is designed to boost the expression of clock genes. Research has shown that cells can independently tell time via the regulation of circadian genes, but they can be desynchronized by external factors such as UV radiation. Chronogen supposedly helps preserve skin from UV damage during the day and encourages better DNA repair at night. Orsirtine
is comprised of glycerin
and rice extract, which is rich in biological actives and oligosaccharides (sugars) that soothe and moisturize skin. Vitasource (aka baicalin
), also relatively new, is a root extract of huang-qui or Asian skullcap. Pro+ Therapy MD reportedly claims it promotes youthful-acting cells to support collagen synthesis. I couldn’t find any information on how it relates to skincare other than it is a known flavonoid or powerful antioxidant.
The serum appears fairly thick and initially feels a bit greasy and sticky when applied. However, within a few seconds, it literally disappears into skin, without leaving the slightest residue or shine. After 30 days of regular use, I couldn’t honestly say I noticed any changes in my skin. While there are some good ingredients in this formulation, there are some I don’t care for either. Further, I wasn’t able to find any clinical evidence to back up the claims for the newer anti-aging ingredients or the delivery system touted by the company. As for PhytoCellTec, Lather
’s Swiss Apple Wrinkle Remedy
($49 in the shop
) is formulated with 5% of the apple extract. I also couldn’t help but note that tetrapeptide-26, the key ingredient responsible for turning back the clock, is very the last ingredient on the list.
Ingredients: Water/Eau, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Methyl Gluceth-20, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Peg-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Sorbitan Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Ethoxydiglycol, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Kinetin, Zeatin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dilauryl Citrate, Baicalin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Ergothioneine, Tetrapeptide-26