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Relastin with zinc and matrixyl 3000 claims to be the first cream to restore elastin

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
August 18, 2008 Reviewed by Marta 5 Comments
The makers of Relastin Ultra Emollient Zinc Firming Complex ($99 for 1.7oz) take a view that I have some sympathy with: creams that contain collagen and elastin don't work because, even assuming that they actually penetrate, they are non-functional and will never become part of your skin's framework. "Rubbing elastin fibers onto your skin in hopes of making skin more elastic is like trying to make your fall jacket thicker by throwing goose down at it. It just doesn't work."

What does work, we are told, is zinc. What's more, the claim is backed by clinical trials and the website features lots of beaming dermatologists endorsing Relastin as a breakthrough.

In February 2007, a group of dermatologists convened in Florida to review the results of two studies on zinc and elastin (one trial was on mice and the other on 26 women between the ages of 37 and 60). Unfortunately, the derms didn't seem terribly convinced and concluded that "The data to support the initial research hypothesis regarding elastin increases appear to be lacking". In a paper summarizing the discussion it was documented that "panel members also noted that a more convincing mechanistic explanation for how the zinc formulation increases elastin production was needed."

Funnily enough, the author of the paper was Victor Narurkar MD. He, along with two other members of the Florida review panel, are amongst the beaming dermatologists on the Relastin web site. I wonder what changed their minds.

Still, if you buy a jar of Relastin, you won't be putting all your eggs in the zinc basket. There are antioxidants in the form of matrixyl 3000 (made by combing two peptides: palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), grape seed oil, green tea and oxido reductases (a free radical zapping enzyme), plus a stable form of vitamin C and phytonadione (vitamin K1).

And if you do fork out the $99, beware of a couple of potentially harmful preservatives, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin.

Ingredients in Relastin Ultra Emollient

Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Dimethicone,PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Caffeine, Allantoin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Polyacrylamide, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Epilobium Angustifolium (Willow Herb) Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Chlorphenesin, Tocopherol, Retinyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oxido Reductases, Phytonadione, Carbomer, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 20, Zinc Firming Complex, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Mica, Titanium Dioxide

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  • August 20, 2008

    by Esther

    <p>Thanks, Marta<br />
    Only I think she meant the Antiaging Serum - not the mom thing, which sounds intersting too. She says her jawline & cheeks had some amount of sag and its all gone.<br />
    Of course, Orchid could just be the ad thing and they have other ingredients that work?<br />
    Am getting some this week, anyhow</p>

  • August 19, 2008

    by marta

    <p>Last year a research company, Mintel, predicted that orchid would become this year's "cosmetic muse", which I think was a polite way of saying hyped up. There is no evidence (really, I've looked) that it is good for the skin - with exception of the claims of researchers at Guerlain: <a href="" rel="nofollow"></a><br />
    Having said that, your friend's oil looks harmless enough. I particularly like the fact that they sell it according to body mass: plus-size moms are advised to buy the 2oz bottle. </p>

  • August 19, 2008

    by Esther

    <p>Hi, I love your blog and the indepth research into the ingredients that you do.</p>

    <p>A friend o mine is raving about an Orchid Serum she got at - she got samples of that and for stretchmarks- and she claimes that in 2 weeks, there was major difference like they said- </p>

    <p>Sound too good to be true -any dirt on them :)</p>

  • August 18, 2008

    by marta

    <p>Thank you kindly.</p>

    <p>Briana, a reader, mentioned in her review of using copper peptides for stretch marks, that she uses Revitol for cellulite. </p>

    <p>I took a look at the anti-aging trio and am very intrigued. There are several ingredients that I don't know about and will have to research. </p>

    <p>Thanks for the tip. I will definitely look into it. </p>

  • August 18, 2008

    by tea

    <p>Hi :)</p>

    <p>I really enjoy reading your blog! You sure do a lot of good research in your posts.<br />
    I recently ordered something called Revitol and am wondering if you or any of your readers have used it? I bought the 3 facial products. I`ve only just used it for the first time today, but am curious about it. The web site does has info and the typical user reviews, but I`m still curious. Would love if ever you run out of something to write about, seeing your thoughts here :)</p>

    <p>tea<br />

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