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ReLuma Advanced Facial Moisturizer - reader reviewed

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin, Dry Skin, Oily Skin
October 12, 2011 Reviewed by Junko 9 Comments
I reviewed ReLuma's Skin Illuminating Anti-Aging Moisturizer ($85 in the TIA shop) back in March and loved it! When Marta told me ReLuma had reformulated, I leaped at the chance to review it.

First off, I'm pleased that ReLuma gave their new moisturizer a different name. I hate when companies reformulate and it's not realized until the product seems a little off, or just doesn't quite perform the same as it did before. How many of us compare ingredients before repurchasing a much loved product to make sure the ingredients have remained the same? I wish all companies would rename their products after they've reformulated them. Renaming sends a clear message that a product has changed, and after comparing ReLuma's 2 moisturizers, I'd say quite a bit has changed.

For those who read my review of ReLuma's Skin Illuminating Anti-Aging Moisturizer and wished it contained more moisturizing ingredients, your wish has come true with the well named ReLuma Advanced Facial Moisturizer. Shea Butter, aloe and squalane give a big boost to the moisturizing benefits of Advanced Facial when compared to the moisture given by Skin Illuminating Moisturizer. Dimethicone has been added too, to seal in all this moisture and provide a protective barrier to guard against moisture loss. Another big improvement in Advanced Facial is the addition of antioxidants camellia sinensis extract (green tea) and citrus gradis extract (grapefruit). Skin Illuminating formula contains no antioxidants.

The preservative methylisothiazolinone has been tossed out and phenoxyethanol is used instead. Of these 2 evils I do prefer phenoxyethanol when used at 1% or less, and ReLuma tells us that the concentration in Advanced Facial is .07%.

Since I'm adding up the positives in a bottle of Advanced Facial, let's add 20 ml more moisturizer, too! You get considerably more moisturizer in a 50 ml bottle of Advanced Facial, compared to 30 ml in a bottle of Skin Illuminating.

Along with all of these positive changes ReLuma made to Advanced Facial, there's 10 changes that I'm not happy about. Those wonderful 10 amino acids that I admire in Skin Illuminating Moisturizer have been replaced in Advanced Facial with two expression line inhibiting peptides, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) and pentapeptide-18. I can't say I see any results, even superficial ones from the use of these 2 peptides so, therefore, I really, really, wish ReLuma would have included those amino acids instead.

After 4 weeks of use, my skin's texture is soft and definitely well hydrated, but improved color is lacking with the use of Advanced Facial. This has me believing that the improved color I experienced with the aptly named Skin Illuminating Moisturizer was due to those amino acids, which are now missing.

Otherwise, I'm happily relieved to tell you that my skin has not revolted in break outs from all the additional moisture I've applied to it every morning. Advanced Facial gives my skin a dewy rather than a matte look after being applied. I personally prefer the matte finish of Skin Illuminating Moisturizer, but it's not a greasy oily look, just a dewy look which I'm not accustomed to favoring.

So, while I'll get more product, moisturizing, and antioxidants from the Advanced Facial Moisturizer, I still like ReLuma Skin Illuminating Anti-Aging Moisturizer better. Skins drier than mine, however, might prefer and need the Advanced Facial. I hope ReLuma will continue to sell the Skin Illuminating Moisturizer, but I think they could rename it ReLuma Perfect Moisturizer, if they'd put in the amino acids and replace phenoxyethanol with radish root!

Still believe, though, if you're using ReLuma's Serum ($135 in the TIA store), there's nothing better to top it with than one of ReLuma's 2 moisturizers!

TIA note: We will continue to sell the old version of ReLuma's moisturizer in the TIA shop!

Ingredients: Human Adipose Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media, DI Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate/Sorbitant Olivate, Jojoba Oil, Sorbitant Olivate, Caprilic/Capric triglycerides, Polysorbate-20, Shea Butter, Aloe barbabensis Leaf Juice, Alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Arabidopsis thaliana extract/Lecithin Citrus Gradis Extract, Camellia Sinensis extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18/Caprylyl Glycol, Co-Enzymes Q-10, CL. Panthenol, Allantoin
  • December 18, 2013

    by Steph

    I love Reluma's 'Skin-illuminating' product - very calming and clarifying. Among the very best treatments/light moisturizers I've ever used.

    I'm mystified by the 'Advanced Facial' formulation. Why oh why do otherwise great lines fall into this same trap of adding nerve inhibitors, designed to relax (=sag) the muscular structure, to products intended for use all over the face? Long-term, this cannot be good! Relaxers like Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 should only be in stand-alone products intended for the frown zone and crows feet areas, IMHO.

    Big thumbs up again for the soothing and firming 'Skin-illuminating' version though :).

  • October 22, 2011

    by Gloria

    I will certainly get back on the E'shee. i will post under the E'shee review. I have been wanting to try it for a bit but couldn't quite rationalize the price, but I figure 1 bottle and I should know if it's a winner and the money is well spent either way. You either see great results and see why it's worth it or not so much and now your curiosity is over and you don't purchase it again and move on!

  • October 22, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Gloria, very interested to hear how you get on with the E'shee. I think it is best for targeting problem areas of lines - eg crows feet, lip lines - and broken veins.

  • October 21, 2011

    by Gloria

    So sorry - I guess I confused everyone here. Let me clarify that the formula that I prefer is the Advanced. What I ordered from TIA was the Skin Illuminating. Let me say that I loved it and that was why I wanted to order another bottle. When I received the bottle from them I know there was something said about them having a new formula, but I do like the Advanced a bit more than the Illuminating. My skin may be drier and I need the extra moisture now that winter is coming.

    Again so sorry for the confusion and from now on I will buy from TIA. Actually I just purchased the E'shee serum and just got it today and I am excited to try it.

    Any suggestions as to how I should use it and when.
    Thanks

  • October 21, 2011

    by spo

    Thanks Marta, for making sure we lovers of the Skin Illuminating Moisturizer get our fix! ;-)

    Junko, maybe the new Advanced would work for the dry winter air?

  • October 21, 2011

    by Junko

    Gloria & Spo ** Thank you for commenting! I think Marta has another bottle out for a second review of the Advanced. Interested to hear what someone has to say about this version. I'm still not quite sure which one you like Gloria ~ I'm thinking it must be the Advanced, but there are probably 3 versions of ReLuma's moisturizers being sold still. Maybe you can comment back to confirm? The oldest version has SPF (TIA has not reviewed this version and it's so old, I'd suggest that no-one buy this no matter how cheap it is! SPF expires and this forumula is the oldest). ReLuma Skin Illuminating which I reviewed in March 2011. ReLuma Advanced (reviewed here). I highly recommend buying ReLuma from TIA. My first bottle of ReLuma serum I purchased from elsewhere was SPOILED, but I only realized that (not knowing what it should look or smell like) until after I bought my second bottle from TIA. THEN...I knew the difference between old/spoiled and new/fresh!! Hats off to ReLuma for continuing to make batches of the Skin Illuminating for US ** Love That ** !!

  • October 21, 2011

    by Marta

    Next time Gloria buy from us. Whenever possible we try to give everyone a good deal, we might even be able to match another deal you have found and we won't sell you the wrong thing. We told ReLuma that the TIA community prefers the old version and they are going to continue to make batches for us. So rest assured that we'll be continuing to carry the original much-loved ReLuma moisturizer.

  • October 21, 2011

    by Gloria

    Hi Junko and thanks for the informative review. I had ordered the Reluma from the TIA shop a while back in May I believe and I thought I was getting the new formula. I got a coupon from the AskDerm.com people for 25% off on a 1st order and when I received the moisturizer it was different. I looked at the old bottle and noticed it was different. I was worried I received the old formula.

    I am glad you did the review because I am really loving the new formula. It is better for my skin because I do have drier skin and it works great on my neck as well. I was worried that they sent me an old formula. So I would have to say I like it better for me.
    Thanks for clarifying that for me.

  • October 20, 2011

    by spo

    I'm with Junko on this. The original Skin Illuminating Moisturizer has become a 'must' for me. I really hope they continue to make it and not replace it with this newer version.. Just stocked up with the TIA discount -- just in case. ;-)
    This is my first time commenting, thanks to Marta's help. I've been reading and following the site for almost a year and love it, love it, love it!!!

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