No matter what age, you're still likely to get some spots. Still, pubescent skin needs hardly compare to those of us who can count the years of our upcoming high school reunion on multiple hands. Enter Kinerase Clear Skin Regulating Mask
, which does a good job tackling overly-zealous sebum production while throwing in some anti-aging measures to good effect.
I've been using it for a few months and am quite satisfied with it.
The main acne-fighting ingredients are those you'd typically find in any acne mask: clay (both kaolin and montmorillonite), to absorb oil and draw out toxins from the skin; and salicylic acid. But with two non-traditional additions: There's Canadian willow herb (or, epilobium angustifolium extract), which has both antimicrobial and anti-irritant properties for the skin. And then the glycol methylpropanediol, which here functions to enhance the penetration of salicylic acid into the skin.
The main anti-aging ingredient is kinetin, from which the Kinerase line gets its name. Also known as N-6 furfuryladenine, kinetin has been shown to slow down the aging process for human skin cells. It's fine for sensitive skin, and has a proven track record for moisture retention and wrinkle reduction.
Caffeine is another anti-aging ingredient of sorts. As referenced by FutureDerm
, "Topical application of caffeine or caffeine sodium benzoate have been shown by Lu et. al to have a sunscreen effect, enhance UVB-induced apoptosis, and inhibit UVB-induced skin carcinogenesis when applied to the skin of mice. The exact mechanism by which caffeine achieves these aims is not yet known, but it may be related to the fact that the caffeic acid found in caffeine has been found to have some antioxidant activity.
In addition, and as you well may know, caffeine is a diuretic. As such, its topical application dehydrates the skin, which in turn causes a temporary smoothing effect. On top of that, caffeine also functions as a vascoconstrictor, which will reduce puffiness.
Other interesting ingredients asking to be highlighted include:
Avocutine, a patented ingredient derived from avocado pears, aka 5-alpha Avocuta aka butyl avocadate. According to one study
, it helped reduce the sebum production of the face by 30% in participants.
Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, a cosmeceutical from China, shown
to be a powerful anti-inflammatory agent when applied topically to the skin.
Kinerase also throws in some natural plant oils, such as rosemary, fennel and spearmint. Rosemary is a natural antiseptic that also helps stimulate circulation in the skin. Fennel, however, while it may have antioxidant properties, is a common skin irritant.
The usual suspects are there (phenoxyethanol, along with a paraben or two), as well as something known as propylene glycol alginate. Suspicious, isn't it? Propylene glycol has gotten a bad rep for being one of the main active ingredients in anti-freeze (although it's generally recognized as safe, and is in the smallest of concentrations in skin care products). Here, however, it's propylene glycol alginate, which is derived from algae. And it's nothing to worry about: the very conservative Environmental Working Group gave it a safe rating.
Ingredients in Kinerase Clear Skin Regulating Mask
Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Montmorillonite, Stearic Acid, Butyl Avocadate, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Kaolin, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Salicylic Acid, Kinetin, Caffeine, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Oil, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Butylated Hydroxytoluene, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Isopulegol, Chlorphenesin, Propylene Glycol Alginate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.