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Reviewed and Rejected: Dermalogica Chroma White TRx C-12 Concentrate

Is a Solution for:
Age Spots, Cellulite, Stretch Marks, Sagging Skin
Reviewed by Marta March 13, 2009 30 Comments
I have become something of a Lady MacBeth, incessantly wringing my hands and muttering "out damn spot". In my case, this is not the result of persuading my husband to murder someone called Duncan; I am obsessing about a larger and darker than desired freckle (I refuse to use the term 'age spot', and will concede to 'sun spot' only when pushed). My quest for something that will fade it is ceaseless and it was with high hopes that I tested Dermalogica's Chroma White range.

Everything about Chroma White suggested that it was going to work. Its expensive and its got its own, proprietary peptide, amino acids and a fancy alga. I tried out TRx C-12 Concentrate ($90). After two months of daily use, my high hopes were dashed. In the freckle fading dept it was, in fact, hopeless. It did nothing, absolutely nothing. Rien du tout. Nada.

The main active (I should, I suppose, say inactive) ingredient is oligopeptide-34. This is supposed to inhibit tyrosinase, which is the essential enzyme in the formation of melanin and works by converting DOPA to DOPAquinone. Therefore, reducing its activity is likely to prevent further pigmentation. The problem is that outside of Dermalogica-land, there isn't much independent research about oligopeptide-34.

Next up is palmaria palmata extract and, I am pleased to say, that this one comes with some data: after 56 days skin lightness was increased by 0.8% and yellow melanin pigmentation was reduced by 2.4%. Is it just me, or does this seem unimpressive? At least it gets a helping hand from a brown algae called ascophyllum nodosum extract.

A kinder reviewer might give Chroma White the benefit of the doubt and assume that its role might be preventative rather than curative. The trouble with the kind-hearted theory is that Dermalogica says Chroma White "reduces" hyperpigmentation.

I am not the only one who lost patience with Chroma White - check out our community section. In the meantime, the quest continues.

Ingredients in Dermalogica Chroma White TRx C-12 Concentrate

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Oligopeptide-34, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldiethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Zinc Glycinate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Phytic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Benzyl PCA, Phenoxyethanol.
  • April 27, 2015

    by Jenny

    I have tried their extreme C and it worked for me. I had sunspots all over my forehead and after about a month or 2 it all disappeared. Just rubbed in on every night directly on the spots. My spots come back if I'm in the sun without high spf but the powder always work to remove them.

  • January 4, 2014

    by Lola

    Good news is, the heavy silicone content in TRX C12 managed not to break-out my acne prone skin.

    Had I known that the efficacy of this product is limited to its usage in conjunction with other products within the Chromawhite 'system', I would have avoided it like I always do with such products. Dermalogica should train its SA's to disclose this crucial info to customers.

    That aside, I used this product along with the Daily Microfoliant and the Ultracalming shield spf30 for 3 months until it was used up. I saw no changes to my sunspots, though I'm happy they didn't get darker. Not sure if this was meant to maintain the status quo, but that's obviously not the reason I purchased it. I replaced it with the Renewal Booster and this seems to do the job.

  • November 23, 2013

    by sophia

    are you reapplying your sunscreen every 1-2 hours?

  • July 12, 2013

    by Melanie

    If you want chroma white to work you need the entire system, not just item. It works

  • October 9, 2012

    by Shikin shari

    Hi, im an asian n have a minor freckles and dull skin due to bleaching product in previous time..so i switch to croma white range and so far im satisfied with the results. My freckles thinning n no more dull skin..i would love to recommend this for dull skin as this works for me..but i have to admit the prices are expensive...wink wink

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