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Reviewed and rejected: Epionce Purifying Lytic Toner

Is a Solution for:
Dull Skin, Oily Skin, Dry Skin
December 15, 2008 Reviewed by admin 2 Comments
Am I a packaging snob? Maybe. Sorry, Epionce, but I think it's time for a redesign. From package to bottle to formula, I'm just completely turned off. Everything about the look and feel of the toner (as well as the other products in the line) takes me back to my days living and traveling through Eastern Europe's post-Communist bloc states.

The mentholated fumes. The Listerine look. The gold script set against an impure white. The toxic dyes hidden amongst a few nice ingredients... Why does it make me think of Russian beluga caviar that may or may not have been harvested from surrounding Chernobyl lakes?

The line touts that chronic inflammation is the key behind skin aging, which may be true, but when you have triethanolamine (an irritant, and possible carcinogenic according to one animal study, with over 40% of cosmetics containing TEA found to be contaminated with nitrosamines), disodium EDTA (also an irritant, and with negative organ effects at low doses in animal studies) phenoxyethanol, and nasty dyes Red #40 and Yellow #5, along with the miscellaneous PEG, than the product line seems to me more like a Stalinistic five-year program for your skin dressed up with insider marketing buzz words in the hopes of an easy sell.

I may be offending some here, and if so, I hope I am forgiven. Everything I say I say with love... And that's why I'm saying: tweak the formula. Keep the marsh mallow root extract, keep the cucumber, date, willow bark and grape seed extract, and toss the rest. Till then, I'm taking this toner out of circulation.

Ingredients:

Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Althaea Officinalis (Marsh Mallow) Root Extract, Capryloyl Glycine, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Disodium EDTA, Menthol, Phenoxyethanol, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Red 40, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Triethanolamine, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Yellow 5.
  • December 16, 2008

    by Krista Bourne

    Wow ... I found this interesting information on triethanolamine on this website: http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org (formerly the CTFA, or Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association)

    "Safety Information
    The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine on its list of indirect food additives. These ingredients may be used in adhesives in contact with food and to assist in the washing or peeling of fruits and vegetables.

    "The safety of Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. In products intended for prolonged contact with the skin, the concentration of Triethanolamine and Diethanolamine should not exceed 5%. Ethanolamine should be used only in rinse-off products. Triethanolamine and Diethanolamine should not be used in products containing N-nitrosating agents to prevent the formation of possibly carcinogenic nitrosamines.

    "Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?
    Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified so that water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients can be blended together. They are also used to control the pH of cosmetics and personal care products.

    "Triethanolamine is listed as Trialkylamines, trialkanolamines and their salts, and Ethanolamine is listed as Monoalkylamines, monoalkanolamines and their salts, in Annex III, Part I (substances which cosmetic products must not contain except subject to the restrictions and conditions laid down) of the Cosmetics Directive of the European Union. Triethanolamine may be used in non-rinse-off and other cosmetics and personal care products at a maximum concentration of 2.5%. Ethanolamine can be used in cosmetics and personal care products if the secondary amine is less than or equal to 0.5%."

    The concentration of triethanolamine is <1% in Epionce formulations.

    I would be very interested to know the source of the study on the carcinogenic effect, as well as the study on disodium EDTA.

    When one makes claims such as these, it would be very helpful to list the sources for your claims! Thanks!

  • December 15, 2008

    by Niall

    Why would someone add menthol to a product that was supposed to suppress inflamation? Talk about not having a clue!

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