Sometimes I seem to be stalked by a product and currently it is Révive Moisturizing Renewal Cream ($160), which is potentially an anti-aging moisturizer. I was struck by a couple of things: the Frenchification of the name Révive (this word, with its accent over the first ‘e’ does not exist in French by the way) and the fact that the active is epidermal growth factor – which has to be the ingredient du jour that tout l’America is talking about.
Révive anti aging moisturizers should not be confused with Revive DNA by Dr. Sears. Behind it, however, is another doctor. Dr. Gregory Bays Brown is a plastic surgeon and looks like Dr. Brandt’s
younger brother (although, mercifully, less creepy). The Révive website positions Dr. Brown as if he had made the breakthrough discovery that epidermal growth factors used for wound healing could be used to repair age-damaged skin. Many other companies make the same claim and I doubt that he was first. Still, EGFs do seem to be a very effective ingredient.
They are essentially the proteins that are used in various combinations in other high end serums such as E’shee’s
or ReLuma’s (both of which are very good). Révive’s formula has EGF. However, whereas human growth conditioned media (the ReLuma
formula of 9 different growth factors) is the dominant ingredient, in Révive the EGF is half way down the list.
What comes before it are ingredients that are fairly mediocre. For instance, the second most dominant ingredient (after water) in Révive is diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate
. This is derived from vegetable oil and gives the skin a feeling of softness, but it barely penetrates at all (one of the reasons why it is used a lot to make lipsticks). The third ingredient is an exfoliant, glycolic acid, and is probably responsible for promised Révive Glow.”
There are moisturizing glycerin, sodium hyaluronate
. Avocado oil and shea butter are also helpful. But I am left concluding that the EGF had better be really good to make Révive worthwhile. Well, there’s only one way to find out. I’ve bought some and will test and report back in a few weeks.
Water (Aqua), Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Glycolic Acid, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Isostearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Squalane, Sclerotium Gum, Recombinant EGF, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Unsaponifiables, Glycolipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Limonene, Linalool, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil.