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Rodan & Fields Amp MD dermaroller and serum- reviewed and rejected

Reviewed by Marta March 6, 2013 56 Comments

White coated dermatologists Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields are best known for creating Proactiv Solutions acne treatment products., which by and large Truth In Aging finds to be based on harsh ingredients and overpriced. The inseparable doctors also have an anti-aging line called Rodan + Fields Multi-Med. It is telling in my view that the information they chose to give us on the website’s “about page” is that they have won an award for direct marketing and have a patent pending for  tool that is basically a dermaroller.

Rodan & Fields Amp MD is a dermaroller (or micro-needle) tool that comes in a 60-day kit costing an astonishing $200. The idea behind dermarolling is that small needs puncture the skin thereby enabling better penetration of a serum. The trauma of pricking the skin with needles is also supposed to prompt a repair response leading to improved looking skin. Personally, I regard dermarolling as masochistic, potentially unhygienic, and unnecessary (as a good serum should be able to penetrate the skin without it being cut up first).

Now, if I was to submit to dermarolling, I’d want to follow up with a really good serum and I certainly wouldn’t want anything nasty in it that that my punctured skin would be receptive to. The serum that Rodan + Fields sells with Anti-Age Amp MD kit has as its very first ingredient one that may cause mild skin irritation, cyclopentasiloxane, a silicone. Generally, silicone molecules are too large to enter the surface of the skin and, as is the case with cyclopentasiloxane (in vitro tests show that less than 2% penetrates the skin). But what of skin that has been subjected to Amp MD? Unfortunately, silicone, when it enters the body, can be toxic, according to the Journal of Toxicology and other sources.

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The second ingredient is another silicone. Cosmetic Ingredient review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed the data surrounding dimethicone, and assessed it as safe to use in personal care products. They determined that because of the large molecular weight of silicone based polymers such as dimethicone, it would be very unlikely for it to penetrate past the surface of the skin. Unfortunately, we don’t know if that assessment would apply to dermarolled skin.

There are a couple of more welcome ingredients. Literally two. Myristoyl pentapeptide-8 is a collagen boosting peptide (incidentally, it is one of the signature ingredients of the Jan Marini range).  I imagine that myristoyl tetrapeptide-8 is similar, although I could find next to no information about it.

The only other active in Amp MD is a strange choice for inclusion in a serum used with a dermaroller: retinol. About the best thing that you can say about it is that it exfoliates the skin. Although exfoliation of punctured skin seems to be amping things up a little too much. There are also concerns that retinol is a toxin.

All in all, in Rodan + Fields Amp MD is something I’d rather dial down.

Find out about other anti-aging treatments in our handy glossary

Ingredients in Rodan + Fields Serum: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-8, Retinol, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, BHT

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  • July 18, 2016

    by KG

    @Michelle, I doubt the product or the roller is what dried your skin considerably. DThe real culprit is your lipid barrier. If you and I were to use the same product with the same active ingredient but your skin became irritated, that's a clear sign of a weakened or breached lipid barriers. It doesn't mean that product is 'bad' or 'useless', it means your skin is communicating clearly to you and you're not listening. Sensitivity (dryness, redness) and bumps (acne), trump everything. Your sensitivity spoke up when you applied retinol. Build your lipid barrier first and you'll have much better results with anti-aging products such as rolling and retinol.

  • May 24, 2016

    by Michelle

    The redefine regimen by Rodan and fields along with the Amp MD roller and serum has significantly de hydrated my skin and caused damage to my face. It has also cause premature wrinkling in my cheeks. I would highly suggest checking with your dermatologist or other professional before trying new products rather than trusting an untrained consultant. It is too late for me. I hope it is not for you!! Use extreme caution! I am praying for a miracle to reverse my skin damage.

  • April 18, 2016

    by Jordan

    Just to clarify some of the comments...

    1. Rodan+Fields was sold exclusively in departments stores like Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, etc. and was the #1 seller, but a very few amount of people by from department stores anymore, so direct selling makes more sense from a business stand point.

    2. Drs. Rodan and Fields, they don't take a profit...their would be earnings are donated directly back into the Prescription For Change Foundation that empowers young women and helps them earn an education.

    3. A pyramid scheme? Goodness, google the word. Rodan+Fields sells a consumable REAL product, thus cannot be considered a pyramid scheme. If you are referring to the "pyramid" of how people make money, the ones at the top make all the money and just try to get people to sell under them...you must be confused with the pay structure of CORPORATE AMERICA! The reps have no boss, they can make more money that the person 10 levels up from them... In reality its a much better structure than any other job on the market.

    4. Many dermatologist sell Rodan+Fields out of their practices, and the Soothe and Unblemish lines can be covered by insurance...

    5. They do not test on animals, and never have.

    6. Yes, the Amp MD Roller allows the products to penetrate you skin deeper, true. But the idea of micro-needling and signaling the brain to correct the "injuries" is to produce collagen, which no cream can do. Creams only stimulate existing collagen, micro-needling creates NEW collagen.

    PLEASE do your due diligence and research things before you post comments. I could go on for days to correct all of the naive and ignorant comments, because I, in fact, did research this company. Are the products organic or all natural? No, and I've never found Rodan+Fields to be claiming that. But remember organic and natural are not synonymous with safe. There are plenty of natural and organic ingredients that are toxic and more harmful than chemicals.

    If you are going to get on a soapbox, please evaluate your life prior. Do you eat processed food, drink soda, do you buy any products from walmart, what do you wash you clothes with, or clean your house with? Do you breath the air? If you want to be informed, then be informed, don't bash what you don't know, or chastise people who make a different choice than you!

  • April 14, 2016

    by leslie

    Jill Ann, just because these docs are Stanford grads doesn't mean the ingredients they choose are really good for our skin, or that they have made a superior product! They use the Stanford garbage to brainwash people into thinking they're getting some wonderful superior product. And the brainwashing is working, apparently, because they are growing so fast.. They have no ingredients in their products that you cannot find in other quality products, for a fraction of the cost. Plus there are so many cancer causing ingredients and chemicals that are just plain bad. Enjoy looking good and paying more money than you need to. And hope your health doesn't suffer because of your smooth skin. Ill have smooth skin too, but staying healthy, using a wonderful, organic, not tested on animals product.!

  • March 13, 2016

    by stefanie

    Just for good measure...my doctor DOES sell it in her office. Just saying

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