It is rare to find that the number one ingredient in a serum or cream is a peptide. In RSF's Caviar Daily Cream, top billing goes to a peptide that promotes collagen growth. RSF's schtick is that it delivers a higher concentration of peptides than most other serums out there (although exactly how much is never actually disclosed).
In the Daily Cream, the peptide in question is palmitoyl tripeptide-5, otherwise known as Syn-coll. This is a small peptide with a unique sequence to mimic the human body’s own mechanism to produce collagen via TGF-β, tissue growth factor. The claims for Syn-Coll are eye-brow raising, to say the least. Collagen production is increased by 119% and the manufacturer says it will actually remove wrinkles. It is claimed that a 2.5% concentration of Syn-Coll outperforms the darling of the peptides, Matrixyl, at 10%.
So confident is RSF in its dose of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, that the rest of the ingredients are just a bunch of emollients and emulsifiers. Well, there is caviar
. Although rich in arginine and omega-3, this is less convincing than you might think since neither have been proven to be delivered topically.
The nice people at RSF sent me some samples, including Caviar Daily Cream. I don't want to sound ungrateful but the amount I received (about 20% of the pot it came in) was really too small to allow definitive judgement. I can't say I blame RSF for judicious supply management - they are charging $180 for this stuff. I tested it on my neck and managed to eke it out for just over a week. Long enough to say that it seems nice, but surely not long enough - even for the miraculous Syn-coll - to make new collagen.
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, caviar extract, glycerin, water, Dead Sea salts, mineral oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, glycol monostearate S/E, sweet almond oil, isopropyl palmitate, jojoba seed oil, fragrance.