I have done my fair share of makeup experimenting…ever since I’ve been able to balance on my tippie toes and reach into my mom’s makeup drawer actually. So I feel like I pretty much know my way around eye shadows. When I was given Skinn by Dimitri James’ Collagen Boost Firming Eye Shadow ($21.50) in their Cool-Casual palette, the first thing I thought was how can these typical-looking powder shadows actually be collagen stimulating? Is that even what they’re claiming to be by titling it “collagen boost”?

When I looked on their site, I saw that they didn’t specify that these shadows will stimulate collagen production at all. Instead, I was left with a vague, perky description: “These Italian baked shadows will bring out the gleam and glamour in any set of eyes. Whether on the runway or running to the market, these hot-off-the-press lustrous colors will keep you looking your brightest, most confident and sexy best.” Hmm. I took a look at the ingredients list.

Palmitoyl pentatpeptide-3 is also known as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or Matrixyl. Many proponents claim that this is at least as effective against wrinkles as retinol but does not cause skin irritation, which is a common side-effect of retinoids. Researchers found that when added to key skin cells, this stimulated collagen. However, many studies that claim this have been funded by Proctor & Gamble and Sederma, who developed the compound. So while tests have been encouraging, it’s a little suspect. Either way, I figure there has to be a significant amount for this to give any real results. I’m weary to say there would be enough in a thin coat of powder shadow to make a difference.

It also has nourishing corn starch, jojoba oil, and antioxidant grade seed extract. On the other hand, the addition of wild yam extract can cause skin irritation for some people. With UV blocking titanium dioxide and anti-wrinkling retinol convinces me that as the title suggests, this is anti-aging makeup for your lids.

Here’s the problem: they’re not very good shadows. When I swiped a sample on my hand, I thought they either didn’t show up at all or settled in between the lines.

On my lids, they admittedly looked a little better. So I swiped some of the light pink on and went to lunch. I come back an hour later, and it looked as if half of it had simply evaporated. I tried again another day, using the white powder, and then lining my eyes with the dark blue color. Again, it didn’t survive the day. They’re not very pigmented to begin with so the color doesn’t really pop out anyway.

If you’re looking for some real anti-aging help around your eyes, I suggest skipping the makeup and going straight for an antioxidant eye cream, like Derma Radiant Ageless Eyes with Matrixyl 3000 which you can get for only $7.50 more in TIA’s shop than you would for this palette.

Ingredients

Mica, zea mays (corn) starch, titanium dioxide, jojoba oil, grape seed extract, tocopherol acetate (vit. E), retinol (vit. A), wild yam extract, palmitoyl pentatpeptide-3, nylon-12, sodium hyaluronate, kaolin. MAY CONTAIN: CL 75471 (carmine), CL 77007 (ultramarines), CL 77163 (bismuth oxychloride), CL 77288 (chromium oxide greens), CL 77742 (manganese violet).