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Know your enemy is a sensible motto in the age old fight against lines. When it comes to wrinkles, I believe that the more I know about them, the more likely I am to do more than just put my hope in a jar. A few weeks ago, I asked myself a very basic question, what is a wrinkle? The answer turned out to be more complex than I would have guessed. To understand the various treatments, you must first understand that there are different types of creases — some dynamic and some more stubborn. Learn the best line of defense whether yours appear only when you smile or they seem permanently etched in your face.
I am starting with the lines that dart from the outer corners of the eyes as these are, for most of us, the first that we encounter. They are also called laugh lines since they are caused by repeated facial expressions like smiling or squinting.
There is a class of peptides that target expression lines, known as neuropeptides, although they work by different mechanisms. For example, Argireline works by blocking the release of acetylcholine. Whereas Syn-ake doesn’t block acetylcholine from its release, but from its uptake by the receptors. Syn-ake is deemed to be much more effective at reducing the frequency of muscle contractions.
ClarityRX Get Fit Serum ($105.75 in the shop) has four of these peptides: Argireline, Syn-ake, pentapeptide-18 and SNAP-8. It is working wonders on my crow’s feet. You will also find Argireline in Sevani Eye Repair Age Defying Eye Crème ($65 in the shop), as well as in Brad’s Ultra Elastin Lift ($210 in the shop), which also contains Syn-ake. There are three expression line-reducing peptides in Benir Beauty Platinum serum ($195 in the shop).
Those parallel vertical lines between the eyebrows are also formed from expressions like squinting and frowning, and in the early stages, the peptides mentioned above can be helpful. But when these wrinkles become deep and stubborn, some different approaches are needed.
Deep lines also benefit significantly from growth factors that signal to cells to repair skin. An always reliable choice is AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum ($149 in the shop) with a proprietary complex of human conditioned media.
Fine and crepey lines
We really want to be thinking about skin resurfacing when it comes to fine lines and crepey skin. One of the best approaches is the high-powered exfoliating action of hydroxy acids.
There are 15 of them in Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Medi–Spa Peel ($110 in the shop). This is the closest thing to having the iconic peel in the doctor’s New York office. Although your skin doesn’t actually peel with the treatment, dead cells are being efficiently removed to encourage new collagen production as well as creating a pore-tightened and more radiant complexion.
The newly reformulated Your Best Face Define ($70 in the shop) has six peptides to combat lip lines and give the mouth a fuller, more contoured appearance. Matrixyl Synthe-6, Syn-Hycan, coenzyme Q10, and glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice root and there’s even a complex called Preventhalia for UV protection because, well, who puts sunscreen on their pout.
There’s nothing scientific about this recommendation, just a personal success story with horizontal forehead lines. I’ve found that a combination of ClarityRX Get Fit and MitoQ has made such a difference that I almost can’t feel my lines when I run my finger over my forehead. I can look at myself in public restroom mirrors under horrid florescent lighting. Now that’s a test.
Just about the best thing I have found for marionette lines is ultrasound. You can see some of the results in these before/after pictures of subjects in our clinical trials for the Truth Vitality Lux Renew ($279 in the shop).
Neck lines, or tree rings, are another challenge. Loss of elasticity is a key issue. The skin of the neck has less sebum than the face, so moisturizing is really important.
Deciem NIOD Neck Elasticity Catalyst ($70 in the shop). The NIOD formulas are always interesting and this one is no exception. Hydrating hyaluronic acid plays a critical role and there are plant extracts and peptides that boost the skin’s elastin.