dove dermaseries skin care

Dove has become a hawk. As in, hawking us first the improbable (the Dove placebo patch that makes women feel beautiful and confident) and now the insulting with the new Dove DermaSeries, a line of doctor-created skincare products especially for dry and problematic skin. All I can say is that the doctors that were behind Dove Dermaseries need to go back to school.

Let’s look closely at Dove’s claims for DermaSeries. In Dove’s own words, Dermaseries “combines the power of Dove's leading technologies and caring ingredients with the expertise of independent dermatologists.”

So let’s see what we can find in the DermaSeries collection of cleansers and lotions to corroborate these claims. Remember, we are looking for “leading technologies”, “caring ingredients” and the expertise of the medical profession.

DermaSeries is a two-step cleansing and moisturizing system and I started with Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser. There is absolutely nothing in the ingredients that can be said to be the result of “leading technologies.” These are basic fare used by drugstore cosmetic companies for decades. As for “caring ingredients”, this borders on misleading advertising.

Dove DermaSeries Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser is mostly a by-product of petrol with petrolatum and mineral oil. The best that can be said about these is that they provide a surface barrier that protects dry skin, they do nothing curative. Ditto for glycol stearate. PEG-8 Dilaurate, like all PEGs, carries contamination concerns and is regarded as a moderate hazard by the EWG. The rest of the ingredients are silicone, thickeners and some potentially irritating preservatives.

The only active ingredient in Dove DermaSeries Intense Repairing Rough Patch Treatment and the Dove DermaSeries Intense Repairing Body Cream is dimethicone. This silicone prevents water loss by forming a barrier on the skin. Silicone is controversial because it degrades into silica, which in the body can be toxic. However, the molecular size of dimethicone is typically too large to penetrate the skin. So that’s OK then.

Dove DermaSeries is such a mediocre series of products that a placebo patch is beginning to look worth a try.

Ingredients in Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser: Water (Aqua), Petrolatum, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Glycol Stearate, Stearic Acid, PEG-8 Dilaurate, Dimethicone, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Stearamide AMP, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

Ingredients in Intense Repairing Rough Patch Treatment: Active ingredient: Dimethicone 1.1% Inactive ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Trihydroxystearin, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydroxystearic Acid, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid.

Ingredients in Intense Repairing Body Cream: Active ingredient: Dimethicone 6.0% Inactive ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Isopropyl Myristate, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Powder, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).