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The New Dove DermaSeries

dove dermaseries skin care
May 19, 2014 Reviewed by Marta 5 Comments

Dove has become a hawk. As in, hawking us first the improbable (the Dove placebo patch that makes women feel beautiful and confident) and now the insulting with the new Dove DermaSeries, a line of doctor-created skincare products especially for dry and problematic skin. All I can say is that the doctors that were behind Dove Dermaseries need to go back to school.

Let’s look closely at Dove’s claims for DermaSeries. In Dove’s own words, Dermaseries “combines the power of Dove's leading technologies and caring ingredients with the expertise of independent dermatologists.”

So let’s see what we can find in the DermaSeries collection of cleansers and lotions to corroborate these claims. Remember, we are looking for “leading technologies”, “caring ingredients” and the expertise of the medical profession.

DermaSeries is a two-step cleansing and moisturizing system and I started with Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser. There is absolutely nothing in the ingredients that can be said to be the result of “leading technologies.” These are basic fare used by drugstore cosmetic companies for decades. As for “caring ingredients”, this borders on misleading advertising.

Dove DermaSeries Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser is mostly a by-product of petrol with petrolatum and mineral oil. The best that can be said about these is that they provide a surface barrier that protects dry skin, they do nothing curative. Ditto for glycol stearate. PEG-8 Dilaurate, like all PEGs, carries contamination concerns and is regarded as a moderate hazard by the EWG. The rest of the ingredients are silicone, thickeners and some potentially irritating preservatives.

The only active ingredient in Dove DermaSeries Intense Repairing Rough Patch Treatment and the Dove DermaSeries Intense Repairing Body Cream is dimethicone. This silicone prevents water loss by forming a barrier on the skin. Silicone is controversial because it degrades into silica, which in the body can be toxic. However, the molecular size of dimethicone is typically too large to penetrate the skin. So that’s OK then.

Dove DermaSeries is such a mediocre series of products that a placebo patch is beginning to look worth a try.

Ingredients in Ultra Caring Gentle Cream Face Cleanser: Water (Aqua), Petrolatum, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil), Glycol Stearate, Stearic Acid, PEG-8 Dilaurate, Dimethicone, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Stearamide AMP, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

Ingredients in Intense Repairing Rough Patch Treatment: Active ingredient: Dimethicone 1.1% Inactive ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Trihydroxystearin, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydroxystearic Acid, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid.

Ingredients in Intense Repairing Body Cream: Active ingredient: Dimethicone 6.0% Inactive ingredients: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Isopropyl Myristate, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Powder, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

  • April 14, 2016

    by Patty H

    I found this Dove Derma Series Intense body cream at Big Lots and just purchased one.
    I will be returning after work to purchase the rest however.
    I do not understand all the negative remarks above.... this works great. My hands feel silky soft and not greasy. It is more than worth the $2.00 at Big Lots.
    I say stock up. When it's gone... find another product.
    I am guessing the negative remarks are from digruntled Unilever employees.

  • September 17, 2015

    by Martha

    accidently came across this product while shopping in a Big Lots store recently. Now I find there is no where to purchase any other products...what???? Like the paragraph above stated, there is no information on the website that is promoting this line by Unilever! Glad Big lots did have a few extras on hand because that looks like all I get.

  • November 7, 2014

    by ChrisP

    I contacted Dove and they are currently only available through CVS. My CVS does not carry them, but I am told they can order it.

  • October 1, 2014

    by Rosie

    I've seen a lot of hype about the new Dove Dermaseries and was on a mission to buy at least 3 of these products! I looked in Target tonight, didn't see them. Where are they sold? Videos and womens' stories about their experience using the line galore on the Dove website, but no info where to buy. Marketing 101, people. And guess what, now I've lost interest...

  • August 14, 2014

    by Sandra K

    Wow, shockingly bad products overall. Although not surprising. These are the kind of garbage marketing ploys that really irritate me, and which so many people fall for. This is right up there with claims made by companies such as Clinique etc, where I find myself educating their sales people as to what exactly it is they're selling. Pure rubbish.

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