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The New Moisturizers

October 26, 2017 Reviewed by Marta 1 Comment

Keeping skin hydrated is hugely important and as the seasons change we can appreciate why. We can also be grateful for modern moisturizers that hydrate in new and effective ways that go way beyond old-fashioned emollients such as glycerin or natural fallbacks like shea butter. As I looked into them further, I found that exciting hydrating breakthroughs are coming from the ocean, the forest, and the lab.

Conventional emollients mostly worked by trapping whatever moisture was on your skin’s surface. New hydrators work in ingenious ways, at different levels of the epidermis and protect the skin’s own natural moisturizing factors (NMF). Get to know the new moisturizers at the frontier of skincare and how they work to plump, diminish wrinkles and heal, as well as quench the skin.

From the sea

Marine botanicals are giving us some of the latest breakthroughs in hydration. For example, Homeostatine is a moisturizing and regenerating agent made from a complex of two botanicals (from a seaweed and an Andean tree). It has a double molecular structure meaning that it can penetrate the epidermis and work on the skin’s outer layer. I was interested to discover that it also boosts the anti-aging effect of red LED light. You can find Homeostatine in Your Best Face Boost ($65 in the shop).

Also from the ocean is caulerpa lentillifera extract, sometimes called sea grape. It is rich in the amino acids that retain moisture in the skin. It is the key ingredient in Dr. Dennis Gross’ newly reformulated Hyaluronic Marine Moisture Cushion Oil-Free Moisturizer ($58 in the shop).

There is a marine polysaccharide that is able to preserve water significantly more than the highest molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid. In its natural habitat, it can preserve water by 60 percent, even in extremely cold temperatures. For us land lubbers, it increases skin hydration by more than 35% and reduces the look of roughness within two hours. Find it in Deciem NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist ($50 in the shop).

From the forest

Harakeke seed oil is nature's skin hydrator, rich with natural antioxidants and polysaccharides. It naturally soothes, hydrates and cools, reducing puffiness and redness. It is one of Ao Skincare’s signature ingredients and is in their moisturizer, Fortify Day Treatment ($89.95).

Fungi composite organisms supplement NMF and plump the skin simply by rebuilding water density. They are a key component of Deciem NIOD Hydration Vaccine ($55 in the shop).

A plant alternative to hyaluronic acid comes from polysaccharides extracted from the seed of an Indian plant, cassia angustifolia. In cosmetics, this goes by the name of Hyalurasmooth and it can be found in Sciote Super Moist Hyaluronic Serum ($75 in the shop).

From the lab

There are even peptides that can boost the skin’s moisture. Acetyl hexapeptide-37 boosts the performance of aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which helps water move through the layers of the epidermis. It helps out with collagen I synthesis as well. I have yet to find it in a good moisturizer, so if anyone else has please let me know!

Hyaluronic acid is a proven hydrator that draws water from the atmosphere and brings it into the skin. Its water-binding and water-attracting attributes fill up the spaces between the connective fibers collagen and elastin in the dermis. In the past, the large molecular structure limited this ingredient’s effectiveness. Luckily chemists have found ways to create complexes with low molecular size. Find these new versions in Deciem Hylamide SubQ Anti-Age ($38 in the shop)

  • October 27, 2017

    by Liz

    AquaPorin from Circadia has Acetyl Hexapeptide -37 in it. Have you tried this moisturizer? This is my favorite moisturizer!

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