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The Truth about Darutoside

September 13, 2018 Reviewed by Marta 0 Comments

My interest in darutoside was reignited the other day when I noticed that it was one of the actives in Scändic Skincare Skön/Beautiful Rejuvenating Moisturizer ($75 in the shop). I did some digging and quickly realized that there is some confusion surrounding this ingredient. So here’s the truth about darutoside.

Daurotoside is the principal active ingredient of sigesbeckia orientalis, a small shrub native to India and widely distributed in tropical and temperate parts of the world. Its yellow flower head are very sticky and the plant has been used in traditional medicine to treat skin disorders and heal wounds. 

Studies have shown that sigesbeckia orientalis is anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and wound healing. One clinical trial concluded that darutoside can attenuate acute inflammation by inhibiting inflammatory mediators via suppression of MAPKs- and NF-κB-dependent pathways (source)

The first confusion that arises from trying to research this extract is due to the ingredient manufacturing giant, Sederma, deciding to trademark one of its ingredients as Darutoside. Sederma’s Darutoside is in fact a complex of two active ingredients: a centella asiatica (gotu kola) extract and darutoside extracted from siegesbeckia orientalis.

The second confusion stems from darutoside being marketed as a stretch mark treatment. I couldn’t find any research to back this up. But there seems to be plenty of evidence that it can have broader benefits for the skin. For example, I read somewhere that darutoside has the same triterpene structure as centella asiatica and that this may explain why they are both helpful for collagen synthesis, improving elasticity and skin matrix regeneration.

I also noticed a patent application that combined darutoside with an extract of albizia julibrissin, a plant known as the “happiness tree”. It can suppress glycemic activity (source) and it may also prevent sugar molecules from actually distorting the collagen proteins.

Darutoside or extract of sigesbeckia orientalis is gradually beginning to show up in skincare to impart radiance to tired skin and treat loss of suppleness. You may also find it in eye serums, such as Deciem NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate, where it may improve eye contour, especially by helping with puffy eyes and dark circles.

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