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The word tilth relates to the ability of earth (soil) to hold moisture and circulate oxygen. So it is appropriate that Tilth Beauty Resurrect Eye Cream (0.5oz/$62) majors on four versions of perfluorodecalin, an ingredient that dissolves and delivers oxygen to the skin. And, to me, it seems to embody Tilth’s approach, which is to use mostly natural but leading-edge actives. The result is a very good eye cream at a very decent price.
Tilth Resurrect Eye Cream has a dense consistency – at first I thought too much so, but I have gotten used to it and now appreciate the substantiveness of it. For a thickish cream, it absorbs well and hasn’t caused any milia issues. It certainly helps the lids and under-eye areas stay firm and keeps wrinkles at bay.
The ingredients are mostly peptides and hydrating oils, with very little to dislike. One of the peptides is Caprooyl Tetrapeptide‐3, which also goes by the name of ChroNOline. Truth In Aging regulars will recognize it as a relatively new ingredient that may help with firming and anti-sagging and a key feature of reformulations by La Vie Celeste and Your Best Face. It is derived from a growth factor, namely TGF-ß, and stimulates production of laminin 5 (as well as collagen VII). The other two peptides in Tilth’s eye cream are the expression-line inhibitors pentapeptide‐18 and acetyl hexapeptide‐8.
The four oxygen-related ingredients are worthy of attention. Perfluorohexane can increase the concentration of oxygen, to the extent that animals can be submerged in a bath of perfluorohexane without drowning (source). When formulated with oxygen carriers – perfluorodecalin, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, perfluorodimethylcyclohexane – as it is here, it is manufactured under the name of Fiflow for cosmetic use.
As well as carrying oxygen, this blend can heal wounds and make the skin feel softer. There are plenty of antioxidant oils, such as borage, olive and rose. The only two things I’m not keen on is retinyl palmitate, which may become carcinogenic when in contact with sunlight – for this reason I have confined this to a nighttime eye cream – and sodium hydroxide, a pH adjuster that is a strong irritant and may also be carcinogenic. Nonetheless, the good overwhelmingly outweighs the bad.
I was interested to read Becky’s review of Tilth’s simple and, it seems, relatively gentle retinol formula in A Flawless Serum. Tilth Beauty is a brand I’ll be keeping on my radar.
Ingredients: Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin*, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate (L), Tocopherol (D‐alpha), Pentapeptide‐18, Acetyl Hexapeptide‐8, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide‐3, Perfluorodecalin, Perfluorohexane, Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, Retinyl Palmitate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder*, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Tocotrienols, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Dextran, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenethyl Alcohol