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Pentapeptides and the latest 'Botox in a jar' potion

March 10, 2008 Reviewed by Marta 2 Comments
This is a pre-emptive strike. I don't really want to write about another new 'Botox in a jar' since none of them work and I'm beginning to sound like a worn record. However, despite a tacky little website and a few desultory sellers on eBay, Newtox by Lon Cosmetics is beginning to crop up on all sorts of message board thanks to postings from deeply unimaginative marketeers pretending to be ordinary women who just happened to have stumbled across a miracle cream that they can't wait to tell everyone about. So in advance of them, I want it to be known that I am not enamored of something just because it is a pentapeptide.

The trouble with pentapeptides is they get people gushing without their brains engaging. People literally write: "its stuffed with petrapeptides".  That's like me saying: "its a slam dunk" (which I confess I have even though I can only vaguely associate to that sport with a hoop).

Peptides are molecules that link amino acids. A pentapeptide links five amino acids. This gets lab rats excited because they can target the role of a pentapeptide more specifically. Pentapeptides can communicate with a cell and, if they can also be targeted, then the logic is that they can be 'programmed' to do specific things to a cell (eg repair it).

Newtox combines two types of pentapeptide technology - palmitoyl
pentapeptide and acetyl hexapeptide, also known as "argireline" - to
make a compound that is supposed to mimic both a collagen shot and a
Botox injection simultaneously.

Hexapeptides do not work like Botox. They don't destroy the protein, like Botox does, but keep it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. Theoretically. In practice, these topical applications don't have a very powerful effect and give the impression of working mostly by clinging to the surface of the skin.

On the other hand, palmitoyl pentapeptides are somewhat more worthwhile. They are known as matrixyl and there is some evidence that they boost collagen. Better still is a combination of two peptides that form matrixyl 3000, a good anti-oxidant.
  • March 25, 2012

    by Yuli

    Thank you! very informative... i haven't tried the product you describe, but i have been using phyto-ceutical velvet gel, which has Pentapeptide as it's main ingridient... i don't have real wrinkle (i have oily skin and i'm in mid 20s), but i can say that whatever slight wrinkle formation there was - that gel plummed it up... though i am thinking maybe it's a moisturizing effect of B12, B3 and Q10 that's in there too...

    Can you please clarify if you think that ingredient such as Pentapeptide - is more of a marketing? rather than a true ingredient that penetrates and actually does it's work? cause it's not cheap to buy it... and i wonder if it's all marketing...

  • October 2, 2011

    by Ecca

    Do you know toxicological profile of palmitoyl pentapeptide or matrixyl? i mean, the NOAEL or margin of safety this product.


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