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Youngblood Ultimate Concealer- reviewed and recommended

Pros

Long lasting, easy to layer

Cons

Contains polyethylene
September 16, 2011 Reviewed by Marta 6 Comments
Thoroughly covers hyperpigmentation

Kristen’s last Makeup Memo post giving us tips on how to use concealer, mentioned that yellow and light colored concealers should never be used for covering dark under eye circles – for the simple reason that they don’t work. Bearing this in mind, a staple of mine, the Youngblood Ultimate Concealer ($30), may be better utilized, as I do, for camouflaging hyperpigmentation.

It comes in five shades from “fair” through to “deep” – the “medium tan” works for my skin tone. I like the silky feel, it doesn’t look shiny and it is easy to layer, depending on how much coverage is needed. It lasts most of the day as well.

Youngblood, I am pleased to note, is one of the brands that is in Kristen’s vast makeup collection. The brand has been going for about 18 years, but has been constantly innovating to add new products and reformulated (for example, the Natural Mineral Lose Foundation) a couple of years ago without parabens.

The only remaining cause for some concern in this concealer is polyethylene, a plastic that is widely used in cosmetics. Generally, it is advised not to use it on broken skin as there is some evidence of toxicity. Against this, the cosmetic industry body the CIR, counters that the manufacturing process gets rid of any impurities and the molecules are too big to penetrate the skin.

All the other ingredients are either benign or helpful with vitamins E and C, honeysuckle (which contains saponins that synthesise hyaluronans for water retention), soothing allantoin and jojoba seed oil.

Kristen also likes Youngblood’s eyeliner pencil (the subject of an earlier makeup tip post) and I note that Youngblood also does an eyebrow kit (the makeup artist’s secret eyelift).

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Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Jojoba Esters, Polyethylene, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil. May Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).

  • September 23, 2011

    by lori

    Susan, Thanks for the great explanation. I have the second issue with the crescent shaped indentation. Do you have any product recommendations?

  • September 22, 2011

    by Susan S.

    I'd like to jump in here if I may and just clarify some things about concealing the under eye area. Not to complicate things too greatly, but in reality when talking about corrective concealer for the under eye area there are 2 different concerns that need to be dealt with:


    First is actual discoloration ... the bluish purple pigmentation that seems to darken with age and can be exacerbated by allergies, illness and lack of sleep. It can be because of actual darker pigmentation and/or small veins and capillaries showing through thinner under eye skin. This is usually most noticeable in the very inner corner of the eye between the tear duct and bridge of the nose and then extends down into the skin directly below the lash line anywhere from about a third of the way to a half of the way across the length of the eye. This is best covered with a not-too-light colored, peachy pink based concealer that is slightly denser or more pigmented than regular foundation, placed only on the dark area and blended into the surrounding skin.


    The second problem that people deal with in the under eye area is the crescent shaped indentation under the eye where the orbital bone meets the eye socket hollow. This is not actually "dark" in color or pigmentation, it just appears that way because of the shadow effect. The severity of this and its causes are varied. It can just be the hereditary structure of your eye, it can be because of a slight sinking of the tissue into the eye socket because of a natural loss of volume due to aging, or it can be a shadow created because the skin directly above it is retaining water or is slightly protruding because of a fatty deposit( i.e. a bag). In these instances discoloration is not the issue, shadowing is, and to counteract it and visually fool the eye a slightly lighter in color (preferably even luminous) product should be applied ONLY in the actual indentation. If it gets onto the surrounding "puffy" area you're back to square one. The idea is to put light into the shadow to visually bring it up to the level of the surrounding skin that sits higher. Usually products of this type tend to be lighter in texture than concealer, but you can use a concealer as well.


    Yes all this can get complicated and that's why make-up artists exist. Usually I recommend people figure out which specific issue is their biggest problem and the tackle that. One trick you can do is to press or smoosh some of your cheek fat or skin upwards toward your eye socket. If your dark circle magically disappears you have more of an indentation issue and can use a lighter weight, more fluid, slightly luminous, slightly lighter colored (and still kind of peachy pink) product in the hollow. If you do the "push and smoosh" and the skin under your eye still looks dark, then your issue is more discoloration and it's best served with a slightly denser more opaque product with a fairly strong peachy pink undertone that's not too light colored, placed only on the dark area. One example I like to give when discussing masking dark pigmentation is this: If you had a wall with some ugly dark marks on it that you wanted to cover up, what paint color would work better? White or a really light color? Or something medium toned with some color to it in about the same depth of tone as the marks?

    Sorry for the uber-long post! ;-)

    -Susan S.

  • September 17, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Eileen, I should let the expert speak. But since I am a big user of the RedPoint concealer I will jump in. I use the palette of three shades that includes a rosy color as well as a yellow one. Its a super useful kit and the tones can be blended together for a customized look.

  • September 17, 2011

    by Eileen

    Hi Marta and Kristen, thanks for the great tips. Mineral foundations don't work well for me and i was wondering what you would think about using Red Point concealers (eye disguise particularly for shadows around the inner part of the eyes) instead of Jane Iredale? Since Kristen recommends using a salmon/peach colored concealer for that area, I thought it may be better in terms of color. Thank you

  • September 17, 2011

    by Julie Kay

    I apply Everyday Mineral's Multi-Intensive concealer light (using a taklon brush) as my concealer on my dark circles as well as touching up spider veins and other hyperpigmentation all over my face before applying Sterling Minerals (color) Amara loose foundation (with a blue squirrel foundation brush).
    For my brows I use MAC's brow pencil in taupe w' MAC's brow brush.
    I finally purchased KaplanMD Lip20 in Neutral and Berry, and love them both! Just enough for these thin old lips.
    Smack! ~jk

  • September 16, 2011

    by Kristen Arnett

    Great review Marta! I love that you are working your way through my makeup kit and so happy to hear the concealer is working out for you too! ;-) Keep up the good work!

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