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Your Best Face Refresh and Antioxidants- reader reviewed

Reviewed by TIA Community Member January 29, 2011 10 Comments

Pros

Contains spin trap as the main ingredient

Cons

Lacks stabilizers
Results seem to be gradual over time

by Karlyn

First, I must confess that I earned a doctorate in organic chemistry in the late '80s. So, I come to these product reviews from a somewhat different perspective.

1) Antioxidants Concentrate ($55 in the shop): I used this product for about 2 months, beginning in mid November and used it on only 1/2 of my face so I would have a point of comparison.  I first noted a very nice, almost spicy/earthy smell to this formula which seemed very nice.  Upon application, it absorbed quickly into my skin.  I layered it along with a vitamin C product and glycolic acid product as well as moisturizer and did this in the mornings only.  During the two months I used this, I kept looking for some changes in my skin on the side where the YBF product was applied.  However, even to this date, I still cannot see much - maybe a fine line smoothened.  But, still not that much of a difference.  It may well be that for the product to have its maximum effect, the period of use must be for 6 months or longer, which would give the skin cells at the upper most surfaces of the skin sufficient time to regenerate and for the human eye to see some more visible effects from the product.

2) Refresh eye cream ($80): Similar to the Antioxidants, I used this product for about 2 months, beginning in mid November and used it on only 1/2 of my face so I would have a point of comparison. This product had no detectable smell for me.  It is a pale yellow cream.  I applied this product in the mornings.  I did not use any other eye area product during that time.  I found that there were some absorption problems for me and this product seemed to sit on my skin and I had a very hard time getting the product to penetrate the dermis.  Again with this product, I truly wanted to see some results but I still could not see much of a difference after 2 months of use.  The skin under my left eye seemed to be firmer but I have no way of actually measuring that or if that was me thinking I was seeing some some result.

The main ingredient in the YBF line is a spin trap whose chemical name is phenyl butyl nitrone. Spin traps are purported to be super radical scavengers because of this "nitrone" moiety they possess. However, these species can be somewhat unstable and I am not sure of their shelf life and the effect of all of the other ingredients may have in the stability and other undesired chemical interactions involving these nitrones. I could not find any type of stabilizers mentioned in the product ingredients for these spin traps and in particular, phenyl butyl nitrone which is what is used in the YBF line of products. I could discuss further, but I think I may also solve some readers' insomnia problems in the process if I delve too deeply into the science behind this type of additive.  Sweet dreams.

Ingredients in Refresh

Ingredients Reverse osmosis water, olivem (cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate), cucumber extract, Syn-Tacks (glycerin, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxytheonine, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate), Syn-Coll (glycerin, palmitoyl tripeptide-5), caffeine, nutmeg butter, ppg5 ceteth-20, olive squalane, L-carnosine, nylon-12, vitamin e, c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ethylhexyl palmitate, vitamin B5, dimethyl isosorbide, alpha bisabolol, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), tetrahydrocurcuminoids (turmeric root extract), idebenone,Lipochroman-6 (dimethylmethoxy chromanol), trans resveratrol, chrysin, sodium hyaluronate, violet leaf absolute, oakmoss absolute, triethanolamine, paraben du

Ingredients in Antioxidants

Reverse osmosis water, olivem (cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate), propylene glycol, ferulic acid, vitamin e, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), Lipochroman-6 (dimethylmethoxy chromanol), sodium hyaluronate, paraben DU

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  • February 7, 2011

    by Jaysie

    Karlyn - Loved reading your assessment of YBF. I would really enjoy reading future post(s) from you regarding ingredient formulations. I often think manufacturers plop a cornucopia of "buzz word" ingredients into a product so they can market discrete lab results rather than real world results. And then the products do not perform because of low concentrations, instability or other ingredients thrown in (for fragrance, appearance, etc.) that cause bad reactions.

    To a large degree, the skin (and hair) treatment industry is built on the same premise as the movie Inception where we are implanted with an idea that a product will make a difference. The promise is always bigger than the payoff. I agree with your opinion of RetinA and AHAs. These are treatments with very specific applications and documented scientific results over many years.

    Meanwhile, we are faced with sorting out a huge array of products that include all manner of herbs, essential oils, mushrooms, yeasts, vitamins, chemical all-stars, preservatives, et al, in amounts and combinations with other things we cannot parse. Someone like you could help all of us in many ways and TIA is a great place to do it.

  • February 3, 2011

    by Karlyn

    Hi All:

    Thanks for all the comments. I am flattered by your interest in my post and I hope to have more products to review from Marta in the near future. And I just wanted to let all of her loyal readers know that I have no ties personally or professionally with the cosmetic industry. I just have a high degree of scientific curiosity in all of these products as having had acne and other skin issues at a very early age. Best regards to all of you. Karlyn

  • February 2, 2011

    by deborah rodell

    This is my favorite product! I add it to everything I use or just use alone. And it goes a long long way. Enjoyed the input from the chemist, thank you.

  • February 2, 2011

    by Jess

    Karlyn,

    As a research scientist (neurobiology), I loved your review and would be quite happy to hear the rest of your thoughts on phenyl butyl nitrone and any of ybf's other ingredients. I used Restore and the antioxidants for some time and while I enjoyed the experience and like the company, ended up switching to a different product line. It's always nice to have the perspective of a synthetic chemist!

  • February 2, 2011

    by primrose

    I was most interested to read Karlyns comments of YBF after her creams use .More of her please as she knows what is what and what isnt on the science.It makes total common sense .I have no confidence in cosmetic products that only want dollars rather than what is going to work in the pot .Primrose 3/2/2011 Australia

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