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There are short-term anti-wrinkle systems and long-term ones. Amongst the short-term are superficial treatments such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (or Argireline, which is the trademarked name for AH-3). Creams such as 24:7 Freeze, Athena 7 Minute Lift or Avetone are based on these. They are supposed to work on the muscles that cause wrinkle formation. It is the same principle as Botox, but much, much milder and lasts no more than an hour or so after application.
Long-term systems attempt to boost collagen production or repair DNA. These are obviously preferable so I am always on the look out for products that contain Matrixyl.
So what is Matrixyl? Basically, its a peptide. Creams these days frequently boast about being packed full of peptides, but are not specific as to which peptide is being referred to. Matrixyl is palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3 and this is a peptide that specifically stimulates collagen synthesis and skin repair. This means it qualifies as a long-term aging system.
I have just ordered a new eye cream that looks very promising, not least because Matrixyl is one of seven key ingredients. It is called Perfect Ageless by the Japanese company Dr Ci:Labo.
However, there is something that might be even better than Matrixyl: Matrixyl 3000.
There is no point comparing Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000 since the only thing they have in common is the name. Matrixyl 3000 is made from two new peptides that have nothing to do with the palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3 that is in the original matrixyl. The two new peptides are palmitoyl-tripeptide and palmitoyl-oligopeptide. They are supposed work synergistically to mimic the appearance of this broken down collagen, causing your skin to react by producing more collagen, as well as elastin. The company that owns the patent has conducted research on two panels of 23 volunteers aged from 39 to 74 to demonstrate that matrixyl 3000 is more effective than the original matrixyl at regulating skin cell activity. The data is limited, however.
Update: In early 2013 University of Reading researchers found that Matrixyl can nearly double the amount of the protein collagen needed to give skin its elasticity. The team is led by Professor Hamley, who is something of a peptide-file and has been looking at ways to stimulate collagen for wound healing. Read more.