Parabens get a bad rap. Some products proclaim themselves paraben-free. But are they really that bad and isn't the stuff that they prevent (the formation of nasty bacterias) potentially more harmful? What about the alternatives? Do they work and are they safer?
Parabens are preservatives and they are incredibly ubiquitous; you will find them in cosmetics and all manner of hair care products. They are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid and common parabens include: methylparaben (which can occur naturally in blueberries), propylparaben, butylparaben. Less common are isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben and benzylparaben.
The fuss started when a 2004
study linked parabens in deodorant to breast cancer. Because parabens mimic human estrogen and it is known that estrogen stimulates cancer, the link seemed plausible. The study has since been discredited and the
American Cancer Society has concluded that there is insufficient scientific evidence of parabens increasing breast cancer risk. And a 2005
study said it is "biologically implausible that parabens could increase the risk of any estrogen-mediated endpoint, including effects on the male reproductive tract or breast cancer".
So if parabens are by and large not carcinogenic, what's not to like? Allergies to individual parabens are rare, but there is a high incidence of cross-reaction so a combination of parabens in one product increases the likelihood of a reaction. Many cosmetic and hair products contain up to four or five parabens.
The other reason to avoid parabens is environmental damage. According the Environmental Protection Agency: "the continual introduction of these benzoates (parabens) into sewage systems and directly to recreational waters from the skin leads to the question of risk to aquatic organs." So be nice to fish and use alternatives where possible.
What about the alternatives? Are they any better?
Unfortunately, many other effective preservatives have safety issues.
DMDM hydatoin releases formaldehyde.
Kathon, a synthetic preservative, was cited as a "major cause of cosmetic allergy" by a study conducted by a Dutch dermatologist.
Sodium benzoate produces a carcinogen when it encounters vitamin C and a British study has linked it DNA degeneration.
Safe, but mild, preservatives do exist and they include:
phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate and - as far as I can tell -
sodium levulinate and
propyl gallate.
UPDATE - 2/28/08 My mother-in-law, Monique (who irritatingly has some rare and amazing wrinkle resistant gene), sent me some clippings from French magazines. I noticed that journalists in France seemed to be concerned about phenoxyethanol. I did some more research and found out that it is considered to be extremely toxic and concentrations in cosmetics are severely limited in Japan. This is what a company who sells it to laboratories has to say about it:
"Extremely hazardous in case of eye contact (irritant). Very hazardous in case of skin contact (irritant), of ingestion, of inhalation. Inflammation of the eye is characterized by redness, watering, and itching. Skin inflammation is characterized by itching, scaling, reddening, or, occasionally, blistering."
Marta adds: I got pulled up - quite properly - by a reader regarding the quote above. It should be noted that the manufacturer is referring to its raw state at 100% concentrations.
UPDATE - 3/8/08. I have just come across methylisothiazolinone:Deemed safe in Europe, the US and Japan, there is however one study on rats that demonstrated it is a neurotoxin. At best, there is insufficient
data to say that this is safe at this stage.
UPDATE - 6/4/08 The FDA issues a warning on phenoxyethanol
June 24, 2011
by Interview with Teri Dourmashkin, Founder of La Vie Celeste - GotInterviews.com
[...] being said, I don’t use parabens and I don’t need to. But I do think that they need to be re-examined. Recent research shows [...]
July 13, 2010
by Julie Kay
My dermatologist is a good doctor, in my opinion. We've discussed skin care products- even as far as what we'd each like to see if we (either or both- no, we've never talked about collaboration) marketed our own products, theoretically. That said- in his office he touts Obagi, the entire line. Obagi uses parabens. /shrug* Now my dermatologist isn't ignorant and sitting back in his office thinking about developing a product and/or treating patients daily and offering them a product that would, in his opinion, harm them. Just saying... I trust my dermatologist. ~jk
ps this is not to say some people can't have a sensitivity to parabens or any other ingredient... but overall parabens do do their job in a product. I try whenever possible to keep them out of the scenario, but I do know the relavence of preservation.
July 13, 2010
by Darrell
Hi Lotta,
Many types of products stay fresh easily without preservatives. Many more products though do not stay fresh and safe without assistance of some kind; such as through use of preservatives or by being stored sealed and cool in a basement.
Generally, natural and water-based products are more likely to harbor pathogens unless preserved or kept sealed and refrigerated. In the food world, pasta is a great example - storing safe and well for years dry, but quickly going bad once cooked and left out.
Respectfully, I'm curious to learn more about your experiences with dermatologists and so I have a number of questions.
Dermatologists must know, separate from their opinions about the allergy potential of any specific preservative system, preservatives protect us from potentially dangerous pathogens.
There are of course, situations where it's determined a patient has allergies to specific preservatives and is advised to avoid products with those preservatives - that makes complete sense.
I'm trying to understand though, any general advisement by dermatologists to avoid an entire preservative system based on allergy potential. Without offering an alternative solution that protects their patients from harmful pathogens, wouldn't it be irresponsible for dermatologists to make such advice?
Because parabens are the most widely used preservative system in consumer products, and because dermatologists are motivated to steer patients away from potential allergens, are the recommendations you've heard a general advisement for all consumers to avoid preservatives - and specifically those products with parabens? Or, are these dermatologists advising that those who may be predisposed to paraben allergies avoid those products containing them?
...And last, when they're recommending we avoid products with parabens, what alternatives are these dermatologists recommending? More companies these days are using higher-than-ever percentages of natural ingredients, which to remain safe, require preservatives. Wouldn't it seem short-sided then, for dermatologists to suggest avoiding one preservative system, such as parabens, without recommending an alternative that equally protects their patients from harm due to exposure to unchecked pathogens?
Respectfully,
Darrell
July 13, 2010
by Lotta
Re. parabens. I've always been warned about them by Dermatologists. I've heard so many of them warn about them I can't even say how many. It's MANY. All Derms I have gone to over the years (around 40yrs), at hospital (outpatient clinics and inpatient clinics), at private practicing Derms as well as in countless lectures (patient organization meetings, congresses and such) etc. Their warning has always been that parabens are provocative regarding allergies, and that they simply do not recommend using creams containing these substances. In my (and all the others I know of) case, part of the warning has also been that it would especially not be worth taking any chances when you already have one skin disorder, risking to maybe contract another. Many times it has also been mentioned that it should should be avoided for moisturizers for kids with atopic dermatitis (eczema).
It really seems bad though that companies are substituting the parabens with phenoxyethanol. Maybe they are counting on this substance to be less known amongst customers? Since people have been warned against parabens for a long time? I think I heard about it the first time at the end of the 80's or about that time...
I prefer creams and such with no preservatives. I also make my own. In my experience bacteria growth and creams going bad is not a very big problem. I think this problem often is exaggerated. I have had creams for years after the expiration date and they've been fine (though being stored cold in the basement). I have never experienced any cream going bad. At all.
Thanks for great information!
November 5, 2008
by Marta
<p>Jacqui, thanks for this and you are right. This is from MSDS sheet at 100% concentrations. I'll edit the post to make that clear. </p>