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* Please read TIA's post on What Is It: Vitamin C Derivatives
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, used in cosmetics, personal care products and anti-aging products because of its ability to increase collagen levels, reduce melanin production, brighten skin, and repair the effects of UV exposure and other environmental damage. It is also considered to be more potent than L-asorbic acid and other Vitamin C compounds, and has a higher rate of penetration (because it is lipid soluble, like human skin) than other derivatives; it also has a higher rate of conversion to vitamin C within the dermis.
According to Epilution.com, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate also has the ability to stimulate the skin to produce glycosaminoglycans, natural moisturizers that allow skin to absorb moisture from the body itself.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is considered a mild version of Vitamin C, and also remains stable in air and water for up to 18 months, allowing it to serve as a long-lasting antioxidant. Because this ingredient is effective in lower concentrations than traditional Vitamin C, it is less expensive for formulas, and has also been found to be gentler and work in some people who are resistant to ascorbic acid (Natural-Skin-Care-Info.com).
According to a study published in Dermatologic Surgery entitled "Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage," Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate "penetrates directly into the epidermis and dermis, acting both as an antioxidant and a direct stimulant of new collagen," unlike other ascorbic acids, which are released into the stratum corneum and protect the skin only as an antioxidant. Significant improvement was found when patients applied a 7% concentration of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate with a 10% concentration of ascorbic acid and saw a decrease in visible photoaging and increased collagen production, thanks to the delivery and penetration abilities of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. However, this study was done by a company producing this ingredient, and cannot be considered independent.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, although the EWG notes 100% data gaps and little information available on this "new" ingredient. No studies were found that reported any negative side effects resulting from the use of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, and it is generally considered mild and a non-irritant, although any Vitamin C derivative may cause some irritation on sensitive skin.
Recommended Products w/ Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:
Medik8 Firewall, Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free Powder and Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 15, Skinn Wrinkle Balm, Striking Multi-Vitamin Crème Cleanser, Perricone MD Firming Neck Therapy, Kenneth Mark MD Antioxidant Cream with Astaxanthin, Aveda Green Science Firming Face Cream, Hydropeptide Eye Extreme Dark Circle Concentrate, April Rain Night Rainew, Blistex Deep Renewal, DermElect Detoxifying Oxygen Facial Commission, Skin Medica’s Vitamin C Complex, Skinn Reorganize Night Eye Balm