It is more than two years since I first tried ReLuma Skin Illuminating Anti-aging Serum and although the results were really good, I finished the bottle, moved on to something new and then it was suddenly the end of 2010. When Invitrx, the makers of ReLuma contacted me to tell me that they had slightly modified the serum’s formula and expanded the line (to include lash and hair growth products amongst other things) I was curious as to whether I would be reunited with the love of my life or it would be more like going one the those excruciating dates with someone that you broke up with long ago for a good reason. Well, ReLuma is back in my life and staying in it. This is quite possibly the best anti-wrinkle serum ever.

ReLuma has, after about five weeks, had a very noticeable impact on deeper wrinkles – more than any other serum I have tried.  My crow’s feet are fading, some cross-hatching that has been emerging (due to sleeping on my side and I was getting scared that they were not only permanent but getting worse), and the lines around my mouth are diminishing. For that latter, I give thanks to team work from ReLuma and Your Best Face Define. In general, my skin looks plump and in really good condition.

Now, there are some things I should make clear. First, ReLuma takes some time to kick in. I remembered this from when I tried it a couple of years ago, so I was prepared to wait it out. And I mean wait it out: for at least three weeks, nothing seemed to be happening at all and then I gradually became aware that I was looking really well. Secondly, do not buy ReLuma if you don’t have wrinkles. This is a product that repairs damage.

ReLuma’s formula is deceptively simple. In fact, it is based on human conditioned media and ReLuma has quite a complex combination of what are essentially proteins. As we age, the critical proteins for healthy skin start to decline. These proteins and growth factors can be isolated as PDGF, VEGF, FGF, IGF3 and TGF-B. Of these, TGF-B is thought to be the most important because its signals are recognized by the majority of cells. TGF-B expression is also induced during wound healing and studies show that it can increase collagen and fibronectin. Meanwhile, PDGF “increases the rate of cellularity and granulation in tissue formation through increased fibroblast function“.

Although PDGF, VEGF, FGF, IGF3 and TGF-B all do their own thing, it is the combination of them that is supposed to get results. For example, in order for TGF-b to stimulate fibroblast cell growth, the presence of PDGF is required. In all, ReLuma has nine different human cytokines in the human fibroblast conditioned media.

ReLuma tells me that they have been improving the technology behind the conditioned media. The current Reluma formulation is based on a blend of Invitrx's  three cell technologies: a new stem cell technology ,iPS  (Induced Pluripotent Stem Cell). Alongside iPS, they mix  Adipose derived stem cell and, thirdly, the Dermal Fibroblast Conditioned Media that was the original formula.

The human conditioned media is rounded out with some vitamin B. ReLuma’s new formula is much pleasanter to use than the old one, which I found a bit tacky. The preservatives have been modified as well. Now only phenoxyethanol is used. This can be an irritant and may be toxic, but my relatively sensitive skin has had no adverse reactions to ReLuma.

ReLuma is a high end serum and costs $145 for 20ml or $220 for 30ml. I have just put them in the TIA shop.

Ingredients

Human Adipose Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Water, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, DL-Panthenol, Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol.