Bioskincare is rather coy about the active ingredient in its acne treatment cream called Bioskinforte. We are told only this:

It is a biological serum created by a living creature with skin similar to human skin but who never suffers from skin infections. It acts as an adaptogen, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, trigger of skin repair and skin regeneration, and dissolves blocked pores.

A living creature, with flawless human-like, but not quite human skin? A few weeks ago that could have been Michael Jackson. Could be Joan Rivers, perhaps.... Nicole Kidman's looking a bit weird these days....While you think of your own snarky examples, I will solve the actual mystery of Bioskinforte. It's snail slime.

Helix Aspersa Müller Glycoconjugates is the posh name for the active, supposedly an antioxidant as well as acne cure. According to Andes Natural Skin Company, the complex nature of the serum cannot be replicated under laboratory conditions, which is why the natural secretion of the snail has to be harvested in a natural and organic manner. Otherwise known as slime scraping.

For acne sufferers, snail slime apparently works on scarring by softening and dissolving existing scar lesions and damaged tissues, as well as rebuilding collagen and elastin back up to levels that existed before the scars took effect. The company even claims the products have an effect on heavy scarring, including ‘ice-pick’ acne scars, hypertrophic scars and post surgery scarring. This is due to a process known as hydroxylation, which helps to clear out dead material from the scarring tissue and open up the vascular system to allow for skin cell regeneration.

I would have been tempted to relegate Bioskinforte and its terrestrial gastropods to the Dept of Daft, but I know better. Snail secretions contain glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) that tightly bind copper peptides. Understanding why this should be a good thing, requires a quick diversion on GAGs and copper peptides.

Copper peptides promote the degradation of abnormally large cross-linked collagen (the one found in scars and, to a lesser degree, in wrinkles). Most of the research on copper peptides relates to wound healing and there is evidence that they stimulate the production of “regular” collagen found in normal skin. In one small study, copper peptides stimulated collagen production in the intact skin and produced a stronger stimulation of collagen sysnthesis than tretinoin (Retin A, Renova) or ascorbate (vitamin C).

All of which is a roundabout snail's pace way of saying that this might just work on acne scars.