Reviewed by Linda

Your Best Face products consistently receive ecstatic reviews from Marta and friends, so I was thrilled when I learned that I would be sampling that line's Hydrate B ($45 in the shop). I was somewhat less thrilled when I saw that it contained mainly hyaluronic acid—a good cosmetic ingredient in general, but for those of us living in the desert, not so much.

Theoretically, HA works by drawing moisture from the air into the skin. But what if there’s no moisture in the air? In that case, it's thought that hyaluronic acid actually pulls water from the skin, making dryness worse. That has certainly been my experience with HA since moving to a state where the humidity hovers between 4 and 12 percent—far less than the Sahara desert and most airplane cabins.

Though I kept an unusually open mind and applied the clear gel faithfully for four weeks, Hydrate B was truly disappointing: After a month, my complexion looked and felt more parched than usual, and no amount of moisturizer could make it remotely supple or dewy.

In the spirit of full disclosure, I should mention that my skin is naturally very dry, and I wash with some of the hardest water on earth. That, combined with an arid climate, is a tough challenge for any product. I’m quite sure that for someone with normal skin living in a more-humid region—HA is supposed to work best in coastal areas—this product would live up to its claims. But for me, sadly, it did not.

Ingredients: Reverse osmosis water, vitamin B5, sodium hyaluronate, niacin B3, dimethylamioethanol (DMAE), paraben DU

[Editor’s note: Your Best Face Hydrate B Concentrate has been reformulated. Below is the new ingredients list]

Reformulated Hydrate B: Reverse osmosis water, vitamin B5 (dl-Panthenol), Syn-Hycan (tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, magnesium chloride, glycerin), sodium hyaluronate, vitamin B3 (niacinamide), vitamin B8 (inositol), sodium PCA, Leucidal (radish root ferment filtrate)