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When I posted my review of ReLuma’s serum, I went out of my way to discourage anyone without wrinkles from buying it. The active ingredient is a complex of growth factors that were originally developed for wound healing. These things need something to repair and if you don’t have anything, you’d be disappointed with a perceived lack of results. It’s a rather good problem to have, but someone with good skin still needs to take preventative measures. What should you be looking for?
A good place to start is ingredients that I highlighted in a post for 30-somethings last year: astaxanthin (prevention of free radical damage), carnosine (an amino acid that extends the number of times cells turnover), teprenone (also extends cell life), and SNAP-8, a neuropeptide that inhibits wrinkles caused by facial expressions.
Antioxidants are the most important preventative weapons. They fight the unstable molecules that attack cells, targeting those that cause inflammation. You can get antioxidants from eating blueberries, pomegranates, goji, grapes and a host of other fruits and veggies (see our new superfoods section in Beauty 360). However, the skin is the last organ to receive ingested nutrients and so a helping hand from topical applications is definitely needed even if you have an impeccable diet.
Unlike growth factors, copper, AHAs or retinol that all work to reverse existing damage, antioxidants do their work ahead of time. Continuous use should help prevent cell degradation, protect cellular membranes, defend fibroblasts, and minimize photosensitivity.
You should be looking out for the antioxidant polyphenols that exist in superfruits like pomegranate or high tech free radical scavengers such as the new active lipochroman-6. There are a few other types of antioxidants including phenolproponoids (which contain ferulic acid), flavenoids found in berries and citrus fruit, and tannins such as resveratrol in grapes. They all work on different components of the skin, so formulators recommend potions that provide a potent blend of various antioxidants. One way to get a good dose of antioxidants is to use a regular face mask, such as Tilvee’s pomegranate and acai fruit powder mask.
I often find that 30-something skin is beginning to look a little dull and needs brightening and exfoliating. So judicious (perhaps only once or twice a week) use of a cream with alpha hydroxy acids or glycolic acid will be really helpful. Take a look at Kiss My Face’s budget–priced Peaches And Cream AHA moisturizer and La Vie Celeste’s lovely glycolic mask.
Talking of La Vie Celeste, just about any of this natural products’ line would be worth investing in, especially the cleanser. Also look for some of the newer products from Your Best Face – as always, they have cutting edge ingredients, but formulated for younger or less damaged skin. Some of them, including the Refresh eye cream and Antioxidants Concentrate can be sampled in a trial kit that has been exclusively packaged for Truth In Aging. For makeup and skincare, 30-somethings will like 100% Pure. The color cosmetics use fruit pigments and the 100% Pure Potent Mushroom Concentrate is a favorite of our regular reviewer, Kim.