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My start-of-year crystal ball gazing has become something of an institution. My predictions aren’t much more scientific than entrail sifting, based on nothing more than rummaging, reading, seeing what the Truth In Aging community is interested in and my own subjective reaction to ingredients and products that seem to be on the verge of a breakthrough. Here are my predictions for 2015 in beauty and anti-aging cosmetics.
I predict that 2015 will be an eye opener and the best eye serums will focus on new ingredients that will help lift sagging lids. With blepharoplasty, the surgical excision of the eyelid skin, being one of the most sought after surgeries, we can be grateful for non-invasive alternatives. Here are a few eyelid lifting actives to look out for.
Uplevity — which I have just come across in the newly formulated Your Best Face Correct ($150 in the shop) — is the peptide tetrapeptide-2. According to Lipotec, which is the company that makes Uplevity, it induces the expression of fibulin 5 and lysyl oxidase-Like 1. The latter is a gene that catalyses the first step in the formation of crosslinks in collagens and elastin. Fibrulin 5 is an extracellular matrix protein. Tetrapeptide-2 regulates the gene expression of talin, zyxin, integrins), which contribute to the improvement of “dermal cohesion” (think scaffolding of the face).
Another relatively new peptide is trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2. Known as TT2, this peptide can reduce “sagging and slacking” as well as improve firmness and elasticity, according to a study conducted for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (the manufacturer). This can be found in another stellar eye cream, E’shee Alpha Omega ($284 in the shop).
Meanwhile Sederma, the maker of Matrixyl, has an active it calls Beautifeye and claims that after two months it has more than 60% success with “drooping orbital surface and the fold height”. Beautifeye is comprised of glycerin, abizia julibrissin (mimosa) bark extract, and Darutside (gotu kola and an anti-inflammatory herb called Siegesbeckia Orientalis).
I’ll be looking out for more of these throughout the year and would love to hear from anyone who can spot an eyelid lifting active.
Forget those oxygen bars of the 1990s — oxygen has been making it into a spate of skin care products in the past year or so, and I predict many more to come. For sure, to some extent oxygen is a fad, and many of the supposed benefits of oxygen are little more than hot air. But there are some good reasons to take a deep breath and consider some of the potential benefits. Oxygen has been demonstrated to heal wounds and oxygen increases blood supply and cell metabolism in the skin. Some doctors use oxygen therapy after cosmetic procedures.
An ingredient that interests me is perfluorodecalin, a perfluorocarbon that mimics the blood’s ability to carry oxygen to the skin cells. It is used in wound healing therapies and for treating acne. Although, I haven’t found research to back this up, it is postulated that perfluorodecalin promotes collagen production. On the other hand, there is research showing that perfluorodecalin boosts moisture in the skin. It allows the skin to breathe to optimum levels and to self regulate better in polluted environments. Also, it boosts SPF performance.
I don’t mean that we’ll feel guiltier about landfill (although that would be no bad thing) — when I highlight being environmentally conscious, I am predicting that we will all start taking the effects of the environment on our skin seriously. An article in Dermatology Times points out that nanoparticles in the air from pollution “operate through the creation of reactive oxygen species, resulting in the premature aging of the skin.” Bound to those nanoparticles are the aforementioned PACs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), which come from oil, coal and tar deposit. As they hitch a ride on pollutant nanoparticles, they change into fiendish things called quinones. And guess what produces premature age-inducing reactive oxygen species? Yep, quinones.
Beirsdorf, the company that owns Nivea, has been doing research on how environmental factors such as air pollution and UV light affect aging skin, and they found a link between these factors and gene activity. The good news is that the researchers think these can be modulated. I doubt whether anything truly exciting will trickle its way into a Nivea product, but the fact that big beauty is taking the environment and its effect on skin seriously means we should too. For 2015, look out for more products and ingredients that tackle environmental effects on aging skin.
I am not predicting that 2015 will be the year that we remedy sagging skin without an invasive treatment. But I do contend that this year, solutions to combat sagging skin will become an ardent quest. Whether we shall find this Holy Grail remains to be seen, but there are some potential solutions to look out for.
Designer peptides, as well as more traditional ones like copper peptides, are helping produce collagen and elastin. Technologies like microcurrent and ultrasound remain our best bet so far. Read more on anti-sagging treatments and ingredients. In the meantime, I foresee more anti-sagging treatments to come this year.
Marta Wohrle is an anti-aging skin care and beauty expert and the founder/CEO of Truth In Aging. Marta is dedicated to uncovering the truth behind anti-aging product claims.