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strands of peptides

Five Best with Peptides

Solution for:

Fine Lines, Sagging Skin, Wrinkles
November 3, 2015 Reviewed by Marta 5 Comments

Peptides surely qualify for one of anti-aging skin care’s most impressive breakthroughs. These active molecules are proteins send signals to your cells. They even help hair grow, which is why I use copper peptides in Truth Vitality Advanced Complex. New peptide innovations are making them more targeted and even better at building collagen, while reducing wrinkles and sagging. I have come across bespoke peptides in the Apothederm range and three types of venom mimicking peptides in a new serum I am testing called Tritoxin. There has never been a better time for my latest Five Best with peptides.

  • Dr. Dennis Gross Triple C Peptide Firming Oil

    Dr. Dennis Gross Triple C Peptide Firming Oil ($62 in the shop). This is such a good serum that it has become a staple for me. Not only does it have three forms of vitamin C (the only vitamin that has been shown to boost collagen), but it has the same number of powerful peptides. Tetrapeptide-21 outperforms (I have heard claim) the industry standard Matrixyl when it comes to boosting collagen. It is a smallish molecule and, therefore, penetrates fairly easily. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 interestingly not only helps collagen production, but also boosts the delivery of copper (another collagen booster). And then there’s palmitoyl tripeptide-28, which is the latest member of the Matrixyl family and known as Synth’6 because it has six mechanisms for going about the synthesization of collagen.

  • Your Best Face Control

    Your Best Face Control ($160 in the shop). YBF upgrades its already good products every few years and the last reformulation about 18 months ago assured that the Control face serum stays ahead of the peptide curve. One introduction was Syn-Hycan, which is aimed at lifting sagging skin. This peptide stimulates hyaluronan (HA) synthesis and expression of the proteoglycans, decorin and lumican. Also aimed at sagging skin is is Relistase. This is actually a tripeptide and inhibits elastase activity and boosts collagen 1 synthesis. A trusty peptide active from the original Control has been retained, collagen boosting Matrixyl 3000.

  • ExPürtise Effective Anti-Aging Face Serum

    ExPürtise Effective Anti-Aging Face Serum ($120 in the shop). This new brand has been getting some love from the Truth In Aging community, especially the face serum. The schtick is natural ingredients, effective ingredients and no nasties. The actives focus on collagen boosters Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe’6. A word about Matrixyl Synthe’6: this is palmitoyl tripeptide-38 and it helps all the various types of collagen. Also worth a call out in this serum – although it isn’t a peptide – is astragalus. This is a natural form of teprenone that helps telomeres, recently revealed to science as key to aging, to extend cell life.

  • BRAD Biophotonic Essential Elixir Multi-Peptide Youth Regenerating Serum

    BRAD Biophotonic Essential Elixir Multi-Peptide Youth Regenerating Serum ($95 in the shop). A peptide is basically a chain of amino acids, the proverbial building blocks of the body, accounting for the smallest molecular components of proteins. I think there about 14 amino acids in this serum, most of them from silk complex. This is a product that my skin loves and that I go back to over and again.

  • E’shee Alpha Omega Gene Therapy Eye Cream

    E’shee Alpha Omega Gene Therapy Eye Cream ($284 in the shop). The big gun in this extraordinary eye cream is trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2. This is a new peptide and is known as TT2. What is exciting is that it is claimed that this peptide can reduce “sagging and slacking”, as well as improve firmness and elasticity. Apparently it not only fights the effects of aging, but actually “regulates the biological mechanisms involved in the aging process”. TT2 works by inhibiting elastase (an enzyme that attacks structural proteins) and reducing progerin (a protein responsible for cell death) production. There’s no independent research on the peptide, but this recently launched eye cream already has its devotees.

  • November 6, 2015

    by Darrell Owens

    There is a good deal of mis-quoted, misleading and inaccurate information floating around the web perpetuating the notion that lavender oil is harmful.

    Lavender essential oil, when properly formulated with, is not harmful; and as is the case with many essential oils -- it is actually beneficial and certainly not just aromatic window dressing.

    First, very top experts have since debunked those myths about lavender oil being harmful... of course still, as Marta pointed out here -- in a high or pure concentrations lavender and many other essential oils should not be used in direct contact with skin because indeed they can be harmful.

    Second, there are many -- very many -- different types of lavender oil and as such many different chemicals that impact what the lavender is capable of. Some lavender essential oils do indeed contain more of certain chemicals that could, under the right concentration and circumstances, pose irritation risk. Many other lavenders though are extremely gentle and provide quite a few benefits to skin when used at appropriate levels.

    Third and last, but not least -- in some cases natural ingredients do indeed cause apoptosis (programmed cell death) but that is not always a bad thing. Some chemicals in essential oils are indeed toxic to cells -- to cancer cells. Unfortunately bits and pieces of information get selectively passed around and become accepted as misleading facts.

    As someone that has been formulating with products for over a decade but took years to warm to essential oil use, it is extremely frustrating read blanket statements elsewhere that essential oils are harmful or offer no real benefits. They are highly beneficial to skin -- if they weren't I wouldn't work with them in my formulas.

    Unfortunately there have been quite a few lines in the sand drawn when it comes to essential oil use and this benefits none of us. Adding to the problem, there will continue to be companies that mis-use or mis-market essential oils and who fuel misunderstanding about the safety, benefits and role of essential oil in beauty and skin care products.

    Sorry for popping up on a soap box about this topic, but there is a lot of noise and information clutter about essential oils and we should all be cautious about any extreme claims -- good, bad or otherwise about any essential oils. They are not the stuff of magic potions nor are they evil compounds ready to do us harm.


  • November 6, 2015

    by Marta

    Hi Mar, you are right that linalool is a controversial compound, but it certainly won't be at a .025% concentration. It is highly unlikely that the lavender oil is that much, let alone the compounds within it. My take on this issue, which I went into in an article a few years ago, is that putting pure 100% lavender oil directly on the skin is probably not a good idea, but that the minute concentrations in most skin care formulas is not going to cause cell death. . Sorry you are not seeing any effects from the serum. I've been using it for a few months (still got half a bottle left) and have found it tremendous.

  • November 5, 2015

    by Mar

    I'm halfway through a bottle of the Dr. Dennis Gross peptide c oil, with no real benefits yet, and just realized it contains lavender oil. Wouldn't the cytotoxic components of lavender oil, linalool and linalyl acetate, negate any benefits? It only takes a small amount - .025% concentration - to cause cell death.

  • November 4, 2015

    by Marta

    Hi Holly
    TNS Essential Serum is based on epidermal growth factor and although that is a kind of polypeptide, I tend to put EGF serums in their own category. In any case, I didn't love TNS Essential Serum when it tried it. You can read my review here:
    There are a couple of other reviews from members of the community as well as you'll find them by entering the name of the product in the search tool at the top right of every web page.

  • November 3, 2015

    by Holly

    Do you like these even better than the TNS Essential Serum? Why? I'm trying to decide what to buy.

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